Zinc deficiency was initially discovered in humans and reported by Prasad et al. (1963 ). Symptoms reported to accompany zinc deficiency included dwarfism, hypogonadism and poor appetite. In these studies, similarities were noted between zinc-deficient human subjects and known characteristics of zinc-deficient animals. Although zinc deficiency has been studied in many different species, including rats, pigs, chicks, lambs, monkeys and guinea pigs, studies in the rat have provided most of the experimental data regarding zinc deficiency and changes in food intake. The young growing rat is very responsive to the consumption of a zinc-deficient diet. Within 3–5 d, food intake is first observed to decrease. This decrease in appetite is the first visible sign of zinc deficiency, and it occurs well in advance of any other symptoms associated with zinc deficiency. The reduction in growth associated with zinc deficiency is largely caused by the reduction in intake due to this deficiency. This is demonstrated as pair-fed control rats that are provided a reduced amount of zinc-adequate diet equivalent to the amount consumed by similar zinc-deficient rats reduce or cease growth in an essentially similar fashion, as do the deficient rats. Although there are usually slight differences in food efficiency, with pair-fed rats having a slightly greater efficiency compared with zinc-deficient rats, this difference is usually very slight.

Among many, there are two classic studies we mention that provide an excellent summary of the early findings regarding the effect of zinc deficiency on food intake (Chesters and Quarterman, 1970 , Chesters and Will, 1973 ). These findings include the reduction in intake during zinc deficiency, identification of a 3–4 d cycle of variable intake (described in detail by Tamaki et al. 1995 ), force-feeding zinc-deficient rats is detrimental to their health, reduction in the protein content (or content of essential amino acids) in the experimental diet can affect levels of intake, zinc supplementation rapidly restores normal levels of intake in rats and zinc-deficient rats eat fewer times during the day, but when they do eat, they consume similar-sized meals compared with control rats. A connection between zinc deficiency and dietary protein or amino acid levels may exist; however, a complete theory describing how zinc deficiency and protein metabolism are related is still lacking.

Author: Author unknown

Dogs eating grass is completely normal. They are omnivores and in the wild they would graze naturally. The spring grass at this time of year is especially tasty to them so most dogs are grazing more at the moment. Your dog may eat grass more if there was a deficiency in it's diet or if it was feeling unwell in its gut, but lots of dogs just love to graze anyway, its totally natural.

Author: Author unknown

Grass eating - they actually do eat course/couch grass as a purgative, both for vomiting to rid excess bile/nausea and for bowel clearing (very hollywood?) It passes through the gut and out within two hours. I've noticed this is more common in the older dogs. In the absence of handy grass mine also use nettles. They also like the sweet young grass as a dietry supplement. Mine also seem to just enjoy ripping the long stuff (of which there is an abundance?) out of the ground and chucking it about. As for flowers, beware many common flowers and weeds are toxic to dogs ie sweet peas/foxgloves.
Author: Sue Jones

Whenever our dogs have had cuts in the pads,we have tended to really wrap them up for a couple of days, we clean them up and use an antiseptic/healing cream and non-stick wound dressing and bandage over.The dressing needs changing daily and needs to be kept dry.
We figure that with the skin on the pads being so thick,that it really needs a little protection while it knits up,once its going well we will stop bandaging and put a boot on for outdoor exercise.

Author: Tracey Pittock

Heres a few tricks that I have learned.
If the cut is bad or dirty do as follows. Put your dog in the sky kennel then add some salt water and then this will soak the foot. Seems drastic but you could always use a jam jar if the dog will keep their foot in it.
I use baby bum cream, the one with a high zinc level works well or you can get the specialist creams for feet from a mushing company.
Author: Peter Carroll

Back or front?
Back ones definitely 'to go'.

I don't think there are many vets who will remove front ones anyhow, although I may be wrong on this.
Our import 'Ditto' , hasn't got any on the front (or back!) so I'm guessing this is common practice to remove them in other countries.
Author: Juliet Trent

I think it depends on how well attached they are. If they are very loose, poorly attached and floppy, (i have seen some that stick out at right angles from the leg!) then they could cause problems cos they could be prone to catching. My 2 youngest have their front dew claws and I have never had any problems with them, they are quite firmly attached and I have never needed to cut them. They seem to wear down themselves and they appear to use them when going over rocky ground. Having seen dew claws removed from baby pups I would say leave them on unless they are very loosely attached.

Author: Kelly Donaldson

Dont worry about it, it is as previously mentioned its caused by lack of sunlight. Come Spring/Summer months you should see snow nose change to a nice black shiny
button!
I would only worry about it if you saw loss of pigment & hair around mouth, eyes, ears, & dry flaky sores as this could be a zinc defficiency.
Author: Lorraine Le Fevre

A snow nose is quite normal for the breed - it's mentioned in the breed standard and isn't either an illness or a fault (in the winter). If you've had itchy scaly bits that disappear when you add fish to the diet then it's very likely to be ZRD. Fish won't make a snow nose disappear though!

Author: Catherine Lewis

PG - Primary Glaucoma
HC - Hereditary cataract
CD - Corneal Dystrophy
PPM - Persistant Pupillary Membrane

C - Clear
A - Affected
P - predisposed
Author: Lynn Tilsed

Metacalm is a Non-steroidal anti Inflammatory and is safe to use longterm.
Author: Susan Livingstone

Most ageing dogs have some degree of spondylosis and lead very full lives. It doesn't always cause pain or discomfort, but if there is any, it can safely be controlled
with Metacam which is not a steroid and can safely be given long term in my experience. Exercise is important to maintain the dogs flexibility and to delay
progression of the condition as long as the exercise is not too hard and stressfull on the back.
Author: Author unknown

Breed Historians contact Tracey Storey 01353 675 434
Eye Clinics contact Tracey Storey 01353 675 434
Hip Scores contact Tracey Storey 01353 675 434
All Committee members will also be willing to give advice and all breeders should be willing to give advice.
Author: SHCofGB

Leave them alone!!!!

It's not unusual for testicles to take some time in dropping, in fact I know of one very successful show dog who didn't get his second one until he was seven months old.

I do think though, that continual groping could actually have the opposite effect to the one you want, although I've no scientific evidence to support that theory. I know it's very tempting to keep checking though.

I wouldn't consider doing anything to push nature along for the time being. But just to make sure that there is nothing happening to affect his natural development, I'd make sure that the puppy was getting fed correctly and has a proper worming regime.

Another thought - a well respeceted breeder once told me that overweight puppies were more likely to retain testicles. So although no-one would want a thin puppy, little puddings may be prone to problems.

Author: Lyn Hall

Siberians are unusual in that their testicles are very mobile. If you think about their natural habitiat, they experience very low temperatures which would damage the testes if they were exposed like a lot of breeds.

When the dog is out in the cold, and when he is working, his testicles are held very close to the body. They also have the ability to pull them up into the body cavity suddenly to prevent injury (think about how painful a kick in the scrotum from a caribou would be!).

When the dog is warm and relaxed they tend to hang down further and appear larger.

This has been the reason a lot of perfectly entire dogs have arrived at the vet's for a check and have appeared to be either monorchid or cryptorchid. The dog gets nervous about being at the vet's and "whoosh" up go the testicles to protect them!

Siberians also tend to "drop" their testicles late compared to other breeds. Some lines are very prone to this late development and if your dog is from one of these lines your breeder will probably tell you and reassure you that you will need to wait a little longer than normal. Many vets are keen to castrate dogs very young when in fact they are completely normal Sibes.

Author: Catherine Lewis

This is a common problem in all breeds and yes the problem is hereditary. You would be best to have the retained testicle removed and have him castrated. Retained testicles often become cancerous due to the testicle being in a higher temperature than normal.

Many epileptic dogs have general anaesthetics and are fine but if you decide to have him done just remind the nurse of this when she is admitting him in the morning as one of the drugs commonly used as a premed is best not given to epileptics.
Author: Susan Livingstone

If you do decide to wait a while before having the non-decended testicle removed, I would recommend regular checks of the decended testicle, getting it into your head what it's normal size is. If there becomes a problem with the retained one, there is generally some change noticed (shrinking normally)in the decended one.
Also there is no real reason to remove the decended testicle (ie a full castration)just the retained one, depending on his position in your pack this might be preferable as he will still appear as an entire male to the other dogs.
This is of course dependant on whether your vet will leave the decended testicle alone, they do seem to like whipping them off.



Author: Buzz Burrell

The Speed Mushing Manual by Jim Welch lists the Charlie Champaigne diet which is a good start. Rick Swenson's Secrets of Long Distance Mushing also provides a diet. Talk to mushers in your area to find suppliers. If you are lucky to live in areas that sell the Champaigne diet, use that and follow the directions.

Author:

First determine what shape your dog is in. You should be able to easily feel your dogs' ribs (including the floating rib), the dogs' pelvis bones and the dogs' spine. (I can hear your vet screaming now. If you can't feel your dogs' ribs easily (huge layer of fat there), your dogs are overweight. Most normally active dogs of 40-50 lbs require about 2 cups of premium high performance kibble during off season. If your dog is getting too thin, increase the amount. Weighing a dog provides a good measure, but be aware that dogs gain and lose weight for a variety of reasons and that muscle weighs more than fat. A dog that may be very fit may weigh 60 lbs; while a similiar dog that is fat may weigh 55 lbs. Both methods are used together to determine the actual fitness of the dog.

Monitor your dogs' weight and actual fitness closely. Even 5 lbs too heavy can cause problems. Very rarely do you see beginner's dogs being too thin -- usually it is the other way around.


Author:

Studies show that soaked food leaves the stomach in under 30 minutes, whereas it may take hours for dry food to evacuate the stomach. This is important if you are planning on running races or going on long trips. Dry food, in comparison, takes a few hours. The quicker you can get that food processed out of the gut, the better your dog is going to run.

Dehydration is another reason why you should feed wet. Dehydration is one of the biggest problems for the working dog so whenever you can get water into them, so much the better. The nutritional loss is miniscule compared to dehydration.


Author:

If you choose to feed kibble wet, this is fine if the food is
eaten straight away. If the food is left and the water soaks
in to it, the food swells in size and becomes very soft.If
your dog eats the food like this it is extremely mushy and sticks
to their teeth. This leads to their teeth rotting very quickly.
Author: Sid

No. You can't judge how much food your dog is really getting and you are teaching your dog to be a picky eatter. You want your dog to chow down the moment you put food in front of him. If your dog refuses to eat (assuming he is normally a good eatter) then you *know* there is something wrong with him.

Author:

I recommend that you consult your vet. We had a boxer whose testicles were not dropping. The gave us a certain length of time to wait to see if they would drop, and if they didn’t he said they had to be removed. If left they could turn into cancer. This would not be a good thing for your dog. Consult your vet and see how long he recommends you wait to see if it will drop.
Author: Elizabeth

I would wait until the dog is over 18 months before having the undescended testicle only removed.
Before resulting to surgery we give the pup Boy Special (from Canine Natural Cures) and Wheat germ oil (source of Vitamin E)

Author: Dave & Jill

Membership is open to all persons interested in Siberian Huskies (whether or not owners) who wish to help the Club in fulfilling its objectives for the Breed. Subscriptions are due on the first day of January each year, however, applications received after the 30th September each year are deemed inclusive for the following year.

Subscription fees :

Single: £ 20.00;
Joint: £ 22.50;
Junior £ 7.50 ( under 18 years)
Renewals:
Single £ 15.00;
Joint £ 17.50;
Junior £ 2.50
(Overseas members add £ 5.00 for postage)
Note: Adult Membership is required if a 16-18 year old wishing to enter full SHC Working Rallies

Request a membership pack

To apply for membership, please send a LARGE SAE (2 x 1st class stamps) to the address below. You will receive a pack containing information about becoming a member.

D Fagg
Tangham Lodge
Tangham
Woodbridge
Suffolk
IP12 3NF

Author:

Because these traits are very strong in the breed, great care must be taken at all times to prevent them from straying and killing livestock or getting run over... So if you don't have a garden, or are unable to fence the garden you have, you would be better off with a budgie!

While we are on the subject of gardens, Siberians are not a breed for those who take great pride in their rose beds or immaculate lawns. They love digging holes and appear to indulge in this activity for no other reason than enjoyment.

They can also use this skill to escape from your 'well fenced' garden. It is therefore advisable not only to have a very high fence to discourage jumping out, but also to bury the fence in the ground or put paving slabs or concrete around the base.


Author:

I also note that sibes will escape form kennels given the chance.

Our dog is an escape artist he can
open the back door of the house and the front door as well
he can open doors that open inward and doors that open out ward
I have even seen him use his tongue to try to unbolt the compound gate.
He is a rescue, we had a home check by the SHCGB who said that 6 ft
fencing around the garden was good and should not be a problem so the rehome could go ahead. Sure enough the fence was not a problem
FOR THE DOG.
We built a compound to keep him in and increased the fence height to seven feet with overhangs on top just to be extra safe. No Problem over he went again.
Next step call the dog warden who said the kennel was more secure than the one he uses.
Next step use fruit mesh over the top. Now this had him stopped for almost 45 mins, he jumped up bit the mesh and held on until he ripped it.
he then jumped through the hole and over the fence.
The Fence height is now 8ft with fruit mesh over the top he has tried to jump it once but ended by cutting his leg requiring six stitches.
so I am hoping that now he will be safe and secure.
the thing is that these dogs love to have fun and will run given the chance
They will escape given the chance.
It is not my dogs fault if he loves to run and explore its in him, its in ALL sibes.
Having a weak secure area is just as bad as letting a siberian off lead.
It's a real fear, you know when the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end when you see the back end of your pride and joy
running away and wonder if you will see him alive again ........
If owners want to see them run then its best to use a rig.
Then everyone is happy and your dog will be at its best.
We all know owning a sibe is a privilege and an honour. It is up to us as owners to keep our dogs safe and enjoy them.

Author: Dave Funnell

My Volk can also climb weldmesh, and Lupus can open those childproof babygates.

Volk has also let himself out of a standard show crate, leaving the crate closed and the door still tied shut with a collar. I can only assume he squeezed out through the side.

However...the "best" escape I have seen was this weekend when Sam and Brian's Willow let herself out of a steel cage which had the handle on the outside! To open the door she needed to lift the handle away from the cage and then shoot the bolt across. To prove that we hadn't just not closed the cage properly, she did it TWICE!

Author: Catherine Lewis

Yes... in a word! Our Kramer can climb a chain link fence of 6 ft, just like a child would!
He sticks his toes in the holes, and climbs it like a ladder! I have also seen him do the
same with a stone wall, just like a rockclimber! When I catch him trying to dig a hole under
the fence, he will turn his back to me, and SIT IN THE HOLE, PRETENDING IT'S NOT THERE! He
is a nightmare with garden hose as well. I left the sprinkler on, went in the house for 10
minutes, and came out to find 50ft of yellow hose shredded all over the garden. I don't even
try to put clothing on the line anymore!!! Bras are his favourite! He knocks the prop pole
down so he can reach them! I could go on endlessly-but the truth is that he is a super dog,
very affectionate and obedient in the house (I can leave food on the coffee table for hours
and he would never touch it)but once outside -- forget it!!!
Author: Sharon Schofield

Yes,ive just spent all day locked out of the house because Naru pulled down the latch on the door lock.
Tomorrow I shall be spending most of the day filling in Naru's excavation pits in the garden. Shes been
watching Journey to the centre of the Earth again on t,v.
Author: Irene

Oh yes!!!! My Odhinn has surprised me by just how much he can be a mischievious little brat and the most intelligent dog I've ever had all at once. He is terribly destructive...I don't have a garden. I have something that resembles a small copy of the moon in my yard. Craters, demolished plants, you name it...he's done it. My "huskydini" has also mastered the art of escape...Before I erected my latest attempt at keeping him in I'd find him wandering around without a care in the world when I got home from work. I live in a garden flat on someone elses premises and boy I can tell you...I'm quite thankful he never got ideas to do to the main garden what he's done to mine. Clothes aren't safe, shoes, hide away...newspapers...he's my very own confetti machine!!! But he is definitely the best thing that ever happened to me...his intelligence is incredible and he learns incredibly quickly...he knows when he has done wrong and sulks like nothing I've ever experienced before, my little sister wasn't even as bad when she hit her twos. We have an Afrikaans soapie here in SA called 7nde Laan...the intro music was written by the soweto string quartet and features about four violins...Odhinn hates this song and howls in front of the tv every time without fail...in fact he even howls at the recorded version of himself howling at the soapie. It's hysterical!!! Monkeys...absolutely,... Intelligent, funny, naughty, nimble, spiteful and absolutely precious!!!
Author: Jaime' Du Preez - South Africa

Siberians are a gregarious breed and need the company of other dogs or people. They are very much a 'pack' dog and should get along well with other dogs, especially in a family or group situation. They are not usually aggressive with other dogs, but will normally take up a challenge if provoked.


Author:

So...you?ve fallen for those beautiful blue eyes and that gorgeous luxurious coat, the friendly temperament. You want one! But... Please wait! This is indeed a wonderful dog...for the right person. Are you the right person?

Please consider the following points:

First, the Siberian Husky is a high-energy, gregarious dog that must have an occupation. This is a working dog, bred for extremely strenuous work hauling sleds in very difficult terrain and weather conditions. If you do not have time to exercise this dog, or to keep it adequately occupied, if you do not have time to be a companion, to form a pack-bond with this dog, this is not the breed for you. He/she will demand attention and will get it, one way or another; this dog will not be content to stay outside in the yard while you have fun inside. If you do not provide it with an occupation, it will find one, and you may not like the method chosen.

A natural accompaniment to the high-energy and the purpose for which it is bred is the fact that Siberians run and roam. There just is no other dog with such a gypsy instinct; they cannot be trained NOT to run, any more than a retriever can be taught not to retrieve, or a Border Collie not to herd. This makes them excellent travel companions; however, this also means that your Siberian will travel on its own if given the chance.

Siberians are escape artists, a.k.a. hairy houdinis. A Siberian will climb fences, leap fences, dig under fences, wriggle under gates, slip through doors and windows, slip out of collars and harnesses...all in the name of an opportunity to explore the world - and get into whatever trouble it can find: hit by moving traffic, as it has no street sense whatsoever, free to chase and kill cats and other small pets, get into dog fights, chase horses and cattle (thus being at risk for injury by kicking), find poisoned or spoiled meat, pick up ticks and other parasites. It will also be an easy target for dog-nappers and dog-abusers, as it is very gentle and friendly. More than any other breed, the Siberian Husky must be either on leash or in a well-fenced area - and supervised -- at all times. Your call to ?come? will fall on deaf ears when the motivation and instinct to run is strong enough. The Siberian Husky does not respect the momentary discomfort and ?zing? from an electronic containment system, and the size of your acreage is not a natural barrier or deterrent to a dog that is bred to run long distances at moderate speed without tiring.

Don?t be fooled by his appearance -- he is NOT a watchdog. Siberians are not inclined to give even warning barks upon approach by a stranger, no matter where they are, not even in their own homes. They are far more likely to lead an intruder to the biscuit box and offer the family silver in exchange for a treat. They are not inclined to be guard dogs, either, although if you as a member of their pack were seriously threatened, they might come to your defense enough to knock someone off of you. Ordinarily, your most extreme danger from a Siberian is being licked to death.

Siberians shed their coats twice a year. The hitch is that each shed lasts six months. It waxes and it wanes, but it continues all year. There will be an intense period of shedding to get the thick winter coat out in the spring, and another slightly less intense period in the fall to prepare to put on the winter coats. If you value neatness at all times, then . . . don't adopt a Siberian. If you can tolerate fur all over the house and in the very air you breathe, then you are a candidate for a Siberian in your home.

Siberian Huskies dig. If your lawn and flowers are the joy of your life. . . don't get a Siberian. They dig holes to cool off in the summer, but they also dig to form nice cozy nests in the snow. It doesn?t matter to them if there isn?t any snow -- instinct says, ?Dig!!!? They also dig quite extensive dens if given even a little time and the proper place. If you have a Siberian and a landscaped yard at the same time, you must provide an area where the Siberian can excavate without damage to your plantings and lawn.

Siberian Huskies are strong, stubborn, independent and rambunctious. The other way to say that is that they are powerful, persistent, smart and full of energy and stamina, desirable traits in a sled dog, but not in a house pet unless you train the dog well. Training a Siberian Husky can be an exercise in patience. They do not react well to coercive means of training, but they need a strong and intelligent owner who will be alpha (leader). If you are not physically strong, you will have to be strong in character. If you cannot be the alpha of the pack, the Siberian Husky will take over and make life miserable. That doesn?t mean the Siberian Husky cannot be trained to be a polite and relatively calm house dog, but only IF it gets adequate exercise, companionship and training.


Author:

To be perfectly honest, i think that at the end of the day your dogs are your own, and what you do with them is your choice, but what does make me laugh is that
even with extremely compelling evidence that letting your husky run free is a bad idea there are still people who are of the opinion that they know better, this is a
shame because it wont be these people who end up under a car or shot for worrying sheep!!!

It will be the dogs who end up suffering, all because someone who was relativly new to the breed thought they could do what everyone else would love too, and let
the dogs of the lead.

Its at this point its a bit late to say ooopps sorry, you were right.

If you want a dog you can let of the lead a husky is not for you and the sooner people realise this the less of these topics we will have about these amazing people
who have the ability to give a husky road sense and stop its natural instincts to chase livestock.
Author: Dathan Trent

They instinctively dig and leave large holes, even trenches throughout your garden

Author:

If you contact a proper breeder they are not making a business out of it. A proper breeder has the love of the breed as first concern, puppy farmers do it for the
money.
PLEASE do not buy a pup from someone you suspect of running a business as it is unlikely they will provide you with support once they have your money.
Most of us started out with just one dog and the first husky I had almost destroyed my house but that was probably my fault for not providing her with proper
accommodation at the time - she taught me a lot and her breeder was always there to give advice when I phoned.
I repeat - please do not buy a puppy from a puppy farmer, contact a caring breeder who will give you advice and support.
Author: Sharon Sargent

EDUCATE YOURSELF


As thoughts turn to spring and warmer weather you might also be considering the patter of tiny puppy feet. We at hope-UK would like to try and point you in the right direction, and save you from what might become heartache and misery - to one of joy and happiness.

First and foremost research the breed you are looking to buy. Do not just go and buy the first puppy you see. This is not good advice even if buying from a reputable breeder.

Please do not resort to going through the block ads in local papers. Yes, it might seem like the easiest solution - but be warned you could be buying into a whole lot of misery, both financially and upsetting.

Stay away from any breeder who offers you a multiple choice of breeds. This is not how puppies should be kept or sold.

You are looking for a small breeder who really only has 1 perhaps 2 different breeds, and will let you come and see the puppies with their Mum and will answer all of your questions. Never ever let anyone bring the puppy out to you - you need to see the puppy and Mum together. If the person selling you the puppy tells you that this is not possible walk away.

Never be tempted to purchase your puppy from a pet shop. We cannot stress enough that the pet shop trade is a life of misery for the breeding bitches, stud dogs and puppies. The wastage from this inhumane trade is sickening. You might think that you are saving any puppy that you purchase from these shops - but all you are doing is condemning even more puppies and older dogs to a life of more suffering. These poor puppies are bred on Puppy Farms. Puppy Farms are breeding facilities that produce purebred puppies in large numbers. The puppies are sold either directly to the public via the Internet, newspaper ads, pet shops at the Farm itself, or are sold to agents and dealers. Please stay away from them.

So you have finally located your breeder and you have made arrangements to go and see them. They sound really nice; they also run a boarding kennels and tell you that dogs are their life. When you get there they tell you that the mother of the litter of puppies is not well - and it is best if they bring you out a puppy to see. Be very careful... This could mean that these people have a pet shop license and buy puppies in, to sell. If this is the case they are still bred on puppy farms. Start asking questions; ask to see all of the puppies. Take a look at the conditions they are living in, look at the condition of all the puppies (if you are allowed to see them). Are you able to tell what age the puppies might be? Do they seem happy and socialised or do they cower away. Do they look clean? Ask who their Vet is? The breeder (always assuming that they are the breeders) might be telling the truth, the bitch might be ill... then again there might not be a bitch at all.

It is not easy is it? But if you do all of your home work before you go and see the puppies, you should be better armed and able to spot anything that is not right. If in doubt ask for time to go away and think about it! A good breeder will not put any pressure on you.

To go back over some of the points:

1. Be careful if using the papers to locate your breeder.

2. Never buy from a pet shop or persons who buy puppies in to sell (this can be from a boarding kennels even a private dwelling address).

3. Research the breed you are interested in. Many dog magazines have contacts for breed advice, ring and ask what you should and should not be looking for. Do you know of anyone who has the breed you are interested in - if so then ask them where they bought their puppy? A good recommendation has a lot going for it.

4. Check that the person you are about to contact does not have multiple listings for several breeds. These days they use different mobile telephone numbers. Ring a few if in any doubt and see if it is the same person that is answering.

At the end of the day the choice of where and who you buy your puppy from is down to you. All we at hope-UK can say is this...

Puppies purchased from pet shops and people who buy into sell are not any cheaper then buying from a good reputable breeder. The puppy you buy is hopefully going to be a long term member of your family. The newspapers, the internet is full of people who have done just that - and they have lived to regret it. In many cases it has cost them dearly in Veterinary expenses. Many have lost their dog at a very early age due to inherited defects and poor rearing as a puppy.

The choice at the end of the day is obviously yours - but please make the right choice. Only by refusing to buy these sad little puppies will this trade ever cease.




Author: Lesley Hope

We started taking our pups to Ringcraft as soon as they were old enough to go out for walks etc. Its great for socialising your pup with other dogs and other people

However even before you go to Ringcraft you can practice 'standing' your pup for just a few seconds at a time and rewarding with a piece of biscuit or cheese - make it fun for your pup and praise lots for them standing still even if its just for a split second! Also practice getting pup to follow you perhaps up and down the hallway and encourage them to trot at your side for a biscuit - it will be so much easier when you get to Ringcraft classes if you've done a little bit a training first to get the pups attention.

Author: Erika Smales

As long as you know the basic procedures of exhibition in the showring, in my opinion you should start training your pup at home, now. This way you can do lots of very short bursts of training, and they are fun for the pup. I always start training pups to stand from a young age, making it into a game with lots of treats involved. The key is to do it little and often, as a pups concentration span is not very much. As the pup gets older, you make it into less of a game, and get them to stand for longer with less treats. Always reward at the end. When you start going to ringcraft your pup will be well ahead, and can spend more time on the socialising side. Please becareful that when you do go to ringcraft that the trainer doesn't teach your Siberian to stand like a rigid statue, with no personality. Standing still is one thing, but looking like a lifeless shell is another

I also train puppies to walk on the lead at an early age. I start with just an ordinary collar and lead, and start by walking them around with their favourite toy or treat allowing them to go in whatever direction they like to -again like a game. Always stick to a slow walking pace. As the pup becomes more confident and older, I start using a very basic 'show lead', then start teaching the pup to walk around in a big circle, in a triangle and straight up and down. The key to this again is to do it in short bursts, and very often, to reward with something they really like, and to encourage them on all the time. When they are very confident with this, I introduce the most common kind of show lead which is the check chain.

I have often found that the dogs I have had more of a problem with in the showring are ones that have not started their training at an early age. Training at a younger age shouldn't and needn't be intense, but should be done in short bursts. The pups we have at home at the mo are 7 weeks, and, when they come running over, I pick them up one by one, give them lots of fuss and attention, and then, at the end, set them back on the ground holding them and just say stand. They stand there wagging their tails, happy as larry and then go running off to play. It will stand you in great stead for when you start ringcraft, where you and pup will perfect the art.
Author: Krystyan Greenland

The Siberian has a gentle and friendly disposition which may be a heritage from the past as the Chukchi people held their dogs in great esteem. They housed them in family shelters and encouraged their children to play with them. They are alert, eager to please and adaptable.

The Siberian husky is not usually a one man dog, but are capable of showing strong affection for their family. The Siberian husky is not a guard dog, but may unwittingly act as a deterrent to those ignorant of his true hospitable nature, due to his intense personality and appearance. However, as with any dog, it is not a good idea to let puppies and children play unattended. Children and puppies tend to be unaware of their own size and strength and could accidentally injure each other. If you teach your child and new puppy how to behave around one another and you shouldn’t have any problems.


Author:

It is very important to remember that the Siberian Husky is a working breed. His heritage has endowed him with the desire to run and his conformation has given him the ability to enjoy it effortlessly. Because of this, it is important that no Siberian ever be allowed unrestrained freedom. Instead, for his own protection, he should be confined and under control at all times. Since he is a working dog, he must be given something to do. Exercise may be on the lead, at play, and best of all, through mushing.
Above all, if you feel that it is inconvenient or cruel to keep a dog confined and under control like this, then the Siberian Husky is not the breed for you.

Author:

Training Siberian Huskies can be a challenge. They are an extremely intelligent, energetic, and stubborn breed, and you must be ready for the unexpected. Training should start when the dog is young. You should work to establish the rules of the house early, and make sure the puppy knows that you are in charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as a puppy and never give in, even once, or the dog will think all rules are flexible. The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to do them as adults.

Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog will respect you and training will be much easier. It is very important to understand the distinction between establishing yourself as alpha and bullying the dog into submission. These are not the same thing! The former is simply a communication that the dog needs and expects, while the latter is very negative and detrimental to the dog's well-being. By establishing yourself as the pack leader early, your dog will learn to respect you and look to you for guidance and will know where the boundaries for acceptable behavior lie.
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This is generally a big NO-NO in husky-world....purely for the reason that their instinct is to run and if they spot something more interesting than you then nine times out of ten they will run.. and run.. and run!!!!
But, I do know of huskies that are let off to run and they do return to their owners, it's all down to you and your dog, and whether you are prepared to take that risk...

Author: Liz McPherson

This is a very emotive subject for some people. Especially those breeders that have had to comfort someone who has lost a sibe due to it running off and not returning (or coming back in a carrier bag) - especially when they have tried to drum it home that they sibes should not be let off the lead.
For us - the price of getting it wrong is not worth the price of finding out.
Sibes don't understand roads and cars - the only thing I can guarantee is that ours definitely understand sheep and freedom - and are very agile when they see the chance of that opportunity.

Author: Guy Redwood

We also did the 'my husky is different' thing with our first pup.
Despite being told not to, we let her off the lead and yes, she would come back on call each and every time we let her off in a country park...then one day, she was about 7 months old, she spotted a cyclist at the top of a distant hill and she was off like a shot.
By the time Sam got to the top of the hill there was no sign of her.
It turns out she kept running right onto the road and was happily trotting along the roadside!
We were lucky a passing motorist realised what she was and picked her up, he happened to work in a cattery so had somewhere to keep her and let us know....she's never been off lead since, apart from the time she jumped over the back seat of the car, or the time she slipped her collar...but then thats another story. All i can say is that we were frantic with worry for hours.
I think my second girl would be OK off lead but trust me, i'm not taking the risk to find out!

Author: Brian Duncan

I have always had mixed views on this topic. The bottom line for me is that NO DOG OF ANY BREED is 100% safe off lead all the time!
I have lost count of the times that our dogs have been attacked while training by "safe" off-lead breeds. I have lost count of the times I have seen owners of such breeds plaintively asking "have you seen my collie/dobe/spaniel/rottie/labrador....." in the huge park near our house, any every motorist must have had a heart-stopping moment as a dog ran across the road in front of you.
Having said that, I think it is crucial that Siberian owners train their dogs in basic obedience - in particular "down stays" and "recalls" so that if that terrible day does dawn and your dog does a runner, at least you have an outside chance of getting it back. This isn't false optimism, it's insurance.
One of the dogs we bred lives with her owner who has always had border collies and has always trained her dogs for obedience. When she got her Siberian from us four years ago she treated it in exactly the same way. This dog has now worked its way through all the levels of obedience and is starting to beat the BC's at agility. Now her dog, like any Siberian, like any dog, is not 100% safe off lead, but if she did manage to slip her lead in a dangerous situation, at least this particular owner would have a fighting chance of getting her back as a result of her training.
The key for me is simple - by all means let your Siberians off-lead - but only in an area which is 100% safe and which poses no risk of escape. We are really lucky - about a mile from where we live there is a large park completely surrounded by 10ft brick walls and with only one gate. We can let ours off lead there with no problems - one of us guards the gate and the other watches the dogs.

Author: Mick Brent

Fellow Husky Lovers,

Although very upsetting for us, if what follows makes just one owner STOP and THINK again before letting their beautiful Siberian OFF THE LEAD to RUN FREE once more knowing the dangers; then it's got to be well worth it.

Your treasured Siberian Husky is probably not far away frrom you at the moment; your HAPPY, HEALTHY, LIVELY bundle of FUN who means the absolute world to you. I'm right? Yes?

Well take another long hard look at him or her and try to imagine just what it would be like to have to go and collect your Sibes 'STILL VERY BEAUTIFUL' but 'NO LONGER LIVELY' body from the roadside!!!!
The life that he or she once enjoyed so much; snatched away in a matter of seconds!! No, not nice eh!!, and no it wasn't either; such a horrible image to remain with anyone, as it will with us ........ FOREVER!!

Kira escaped: she was NOT LET OFF HER LEAD TO RUN FREE !!!
and the tragic outcome meant the loss of our friend, our pet, our working team leader and our much loved, very special Siberian 'girl'.
A nightmare which takes you to hell and back we can assure you, the guilt, the hurt, the why's, the if only's, you name it - WHY PUT YOURSELF THROUGH IT UNNECESSARILY THAT'S ALL WE ASK?? !!!!

So next time your hand reaches for the clip of your Siberian's lead .... STOP .... THINK .... PLEASE, PLEASE DON'T DO IT .... Don't knowingly let it happen, don't RISK LOSING A PRECIOUS PART OF YOUR LIFE ... WHY ?? .... YOU'LL NEVER FORGIVE YOURSELF .......... EVER !!

Author: Andrea & Steve Taylor

To be perfectly honest, i think that at the end of the day your dogs are your own, and what you do with them is your choice, but what does make me laugh is that even with extremely compelling evidence that letting your husky run free is a bad idea there are still people who are of the opinion that they know better, this is a shame because it wont be these people who end up under a car or shot for worrying sheep!!!

It will be the dogs who end up suffering, all because someone who was relativly new to the breed thought they could do what everyone else would love too, and let the dogs of the lead.

Its at this point its a bit late to say ooopps sorry, you were right.

If you want a dog you can let of the lead a husky is not for you and the sooner people realise this the less of these topics we will have about these amazing people who have the ability to give a husky road sense,and stop its natural instincts to chase livestock.
Author: Dathan Trent

I repeatedly asked my knumbskull husband to please stop letting our 3yr old girl off the lead.It's fine he said there's not a chance of her running off in an open field ! which is exactly what she did nearly 3 miles from home.Crossing and traversing busy main roads in rush hour untill she luckily made her way home pushed open the back gate and calmly waited for my breathless hubby to arrive.Needless to say it's a lesson he has now taken on board.
Author: Abbie Watts

I think an awful lot of people start too early - so much depends on the development of the dog. Some of ours haven't been at all ready to go in harness until nearly a year old, whereas others have been joining the oldies for training runs as young as six months.

We've had adult dogs here that have had no training at all in the past and they have done really well - I think the oldest we started running one of these was five years old and he turned out to be one of our best.

We, in the early days made the mistake of doing too much too soon, and I think ruined at least a couple of dogs who really ought to have done better for us.

Don't be in too much of a hurry to start, your dog is not going to work any less well for you by leaving things a bit later.

And it is perfectly possible to teach a young dog the difference between a collar/lead for walking with and a harness, so walks needn't be a nightmare.

Author: Lyn Hall

I train with a quad and also a stripped out Yamaha Breeze. I now train in Thetford but I used to train in a wood which was only 3 miles round the perimeter, with trails that are mainly 6-8ft wide. As this wood was heavily used by dog walkers and horse riders, I convinced the forestry that it was far safer for other forest users if they allowed me to use a quad, so they agreed. It's also far safer for the team to have a passenger who can help out when encounters occur with loose dogs and spooked horses. I ended up doing most of the training in the dark to avoid disrupting the training runs.

I also train a friends dogs, we run up to 14 dogs on the stripped Breeze with two people on board. Good fun, safe, good for the dog’s manners.


Author: Dan Storey

My siberian puppy has not liked the experience of having a object behind her,so wont run
in a racing harness.
The answer i have is to buy her a tracking harness,walk her in it so she gets used to it,
this worked.She now runs in this harness attached to a metal springer device.This springer
is attached to the seat stem on my bike.It is glued in place as well as being bolted on.The
springer keeps the dog under control whilst running next to the bike,also shes a safe distance
from the pedals & wheels.Ifind this device very good as it absorbs almost all of the dogs pulls & lunges.You also have both hands on the handlebars,best to wear a safety helmet when running
dogs like this.
Author: rose gallagher

Click here to read the beginners guide.
Author: SHCofGB

The SHCGB organises Teach-ins for people thinking about working their dogs or just starting their first season. These are usually held at the start of each season
(October/November) and in 2005 were held at Sherwood Forest and Fort William. Details are sent to all members and can also be found on the club calendar on the
website.
Author:

Sled dogs run because they love to run, they are born and raised to it. How they run is a product of how they are trained. If they are well trained they will run in perfect harmony. If they don’t it is the failure of the musher, not the dogs. One of the great mushers of all time summed it all up when he said "the dogs never make a mistake".
Sled dogs, like all athletes, spend more time training than competing. By the time you see a dog running a race, the dog will have logged hundreds or more miles of training.

Author: http://www.isdra.org/Default.asp?bhcp=1%20-

I would try and keep the dog moving on a lead to help airflow over the mouth, it's main source of cooling. From what I have seen, recognising a dog is in heat
distress is the key. They tend to throw their heads way back as if gulping air down them. This is most noticeable while they are still running, but can also happen as a
dog has just finished a run. They stand there with their mouths super wide open, head back, foaming excessively, so you can see right down their gullet. This is still
an early stage of over heating and quite common. Getting the dog cooled down quickly is so important. If this does not happen the dog usually becomes unstable on
its feet and will usually collapse. If still untreated the dog can them have fits, before its body and brain shut down. Cool a dog off as Helen suggested. Do not cover a
dog in water. All this does is stick the dog’s hair together, which in turn acts as an insulating jacket and keeps the heat in. We all know dogs don't sweat through their
skin, but heat is radiated out through the body of a dog. Airflow through the fur helps the cooling process. If the air can't get to the skin, a large surface area is lost
to radiate this heat out.

We don't like to feed a snack shortly after a run because it raises the temperature of a dog even further just by digesting it, especially lean protein based ones like
some meats. For any food digested, heat is a by product. Pure protein is the hardest for a dog to metabolise. If any snack is to be given shortly after exercise I would
suggest a fat based one for two reasons. Firstly, fat based snacks are the coolest for a dog to absorb in that they produce the least amount of heat to extract the
energy from and secondly, fat also produces the highest amount of water as a by product of it's digestion (107g of water for every 100g fat digested) compared to
Protien (40g for every 100g) and carbohydrates (55g for every 100g).

I hope some of this helps you. Remember, this is only my opinion. There are many more out there that know far more on this subject than me.
Author: Al Spowart

To check your dogs hydration level is to check their gums. press your thumb on their gums, they should be pink and moist, if they are dry and sticky the dog is dehydrated. me being new to racing sibes and a tad on the paranoid side, give the dogs rehydration solutions after they have been working.
kelly

Author: kelly donaldson

Click here to read the working rally rules.
Author: SHCofGB

5-4-3-2-1…For the dog lover, visiting a sled dog rally can be a day of husky-heaven but to ensure you and the competitors get the most out of the racing, please
bear in mind the following points:

If you have to bring a pet dog to the rally, make sure he is secure on the lead AT ALL TIMES and keep him well clear of the trail when the teams are running. Our
huskies are well trained but are not robots! Another dog at the side of the trail can be extremely distracting for the teams which may be racing past you at speeds in
excess of 25 mph. Also bear in mind that your pet may not really enjoy the company of 200+ extremely noisy sled dogs!

The event organisers know the trail well and they’ll be able to advise you of the best spots to stand and watch the action. If you don’t want to venture that far, the
Start Chute is noisy and hectic but seeing the excitement of teams of dogs raring to go is not to be missed. The Finish line is noisy too but this time it won’t be the
huskies making the racket but enthusiastic family and friends calling in their favourite teams.

If you do venture out onto the trail, please stand well back and try not to startle passing teams with sudden movement. Huskies can be extremely sociable and you
wouldn’t want a large team to suddenly race up to you to say hello! There will be race officials (marshals) out on the trail so please take notice of any instructions they
may give you.

Part of the fun is to walk around the rally site, watching the mushers prepare their teams to run. Most people are only too happy to chat about their dogs but bear in
mind that teams have to be at the Start Chute at strict set times so if someone seems too busy to talk, pop back later when they’ve finished their run.

Never offer treats and please ask the handler before petting any dog. Huskies are strong and can be boisterous so please keep any small children in hand.

The club does not charge for spectating, however the venue may charge for entry or parking.

But beyond that wrap up warm, bring your camera and have fun.

Author: Mel Hannam

You should be training your puppy all along. Training starts from the moment the puppy comes out of Mom. Get him used to people and new things. Encourage him to explore. At two months to four months, get an adjustable puppy harness and get him used to putting harnesses on and taking it off. Pull on the loop and let him feel the tug of your finger. Get him used to you touching his paws and his mouth. Put him on a leash and praise him when he leads out (no real corrections here!) Get him used to car or dog box rides. At four months hook up a rope tied to a light drag. (Light as in a small tree branch or a log. Just something to provide a little drag -- if he is pulling, its too heavy!) Bring him to races and training runs. Praise him for leading out.

At eight months, put him in a slow team for less than 1/2 mile. This is just a part of his training, he'll be silly and goof up, but that short time in harness will make a (hopefully) positive impression. Let me re-emphasize: this should be a small and SLOW team and you should give almost no corrections, (except maybe line biting). Do not make the mistake of running him in a big or fast team where he might get dragged. Dragging a pup is the worst thing you can possibly do. Do a lot of stopping a praising here. Make this a positive experience and then don't run him again until he is over a year. His real team training will begin at a year (or so), but do not expect full performance until 2 years old.


Author:

There are 3 wheeled rigs available from various outfitters. These rigs are not like children's wagons or ox carts (where you sit down), but more like chariots where you stand up. A good rig has a steering mechanism, a brake, and hopefully a place to put an injured dog (in front of you or beside you). People also have used 4 wheeler ATVs with success, but they are more expensive.
Training with bicycles, roller blades and roller skates have all been used by people, but they can be dangerous and not for the faint at heart. One or two dogs is about all one can handle on a bike and one dog is about all someone can handle with roller skates/blades.

Author:

Tarmack/concrete is hard on the dog's legs and feet, making him more likely to have injures. Sometimes people don't have a choice, so if you must mush on concrete or asphalt, use polar fleece booties (for cushioning as well as protecting pads) and don't overwork your dogs. Try to get them to run on the grass or dirt, rather than the concrete.
Author:

Hike! -- to go forward

Gee -- to go right

Haw -- to go left

Whoa! -- to stop

Straight ahead or On by! -- go straight and ignore turns

You may use your own commands for these more traditional commands. Some mushers have a tighten up or line-out command to get their leaders to keep the line tight while hooking up dogs.


Author:

Harnesses can be hand-washed or machine washed with a mild detergent in warm water. Hang them to dry (collar up in humid climates) away from a heat source to prevent shrinkage. (Machine drying will cause your harnesses to turn into puppy harnesses if you aren't careful). Hose off your ganglines -- being especially careful to wash the dirt from the snaps. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations for washing winter clothes. If you have questions, consult the manufacturer of your equipment for proper care.

Author:

So you want to show?
You may have been interested in Dog Shows for some time and wondered what's involved. You may have been persuaded to show your puppy by its breeder. Whatever the reason I hope that the following notes will help you.
Before you start you will have to make sure that your dog is Kennel Club registered. The breeder of your dog should have given you the registration document.
The best person to approach about showing your dog is the breeder. Usually, but not always, the breeder is already involved in the Dog Show scene. When the dog is about 5 or 6 months ask for the breeder's opinion on your puppy. If the puppy is of general show quality then by all means take up this wonderful hobby. But be prepared, you will need help and assistance from lots of people and you will have to be prepared to take advice and learn. Many breeders are happy to help and pass on their knowledge.
Nowadays there is a lot of information on the www.

Author:

Show Schedule – a printed booklet which includes a classification for each breed and also shows details of venue etc. The schedule will also contain an entry form. It is published approximately 3 months in advance of the show date. These are automatically sent to potential exhibitors by post or if you exhibited your dogs the previous year; or, they can be picked up at other shows; or, by contacting the appropriate Show Secretary.
Making an entry – filling in an entry form with details of the dog to be entered, date of birth, owners/breeders, and classes entered. The fee must accompany the entry form and it is sent to the Secretary. Dogs have to be a minimum of 6 months of age on the first day of the show; there are certain classes which depend upon the age of the dog (e.g. Minor Puppy – 6 to 9 months, Puppy – 6 to 12 months & Junior 6 to 18 months of age) Dogs normally compete within their own age group but once they are older than 18 months then the class they are entered in depends upon their previous wins.
Entries are normally made by post and the closing date has to be adhered to and is normally referred to by the date of postmark, not the date the entry reaches the Secretary. Entries can also be made for some shows on line. Please note than only dogs entered for competition can be admitted within the precincts of the show and this includes the car park. Dogs should not, in any circumstances, be left in cars. If they are it can have fatal results for the dog and may result in some form of disciplinary action. Dogs can, however, be entered “Not For Competition” or “NFC”. This means that you include them on the entry form, paying a reduced fee but they are not eligible for competition at the show. You can then take the dog into the show.
Exhibitors Pass – This is sent to your home address usually 2 weeks prior to the show. Printed upon it are all the details relating to you; your dogs; and relevant show documentation. You must show the Exhibitors Pass to gain entry into the Showground. If it is mislaid you need to contact the Secretary at the Showground. The exhibitors pass will also show your………
Bench number – at Championship shows all dogs are benched. This means that a steel/wooden type structure is provided by the show. Your dog should be put in this (apart from when he/she is being exercised). Most small breeds will be put in a cage or travelling box before being placed in the bench. All dogs of the same breed are normally benched in the same area. Large dogs do not have boxes or cages; they are secured in the bench by means of a benching chain.
Show Catalogue – this is available only on the day of the show and provides a complete listing of Exhibitors, dogs and classes. A map of the showground; start times etc. and all relevant information for the show is included in the catalogue. It is quite normal for catalogues to be ordered (and paid for) in advance at the time the entry is made. Your exhibitor’s pass will include a slip which enables you to collect your catalogue on arrival at the show. You should always check that your details are shown correctly in the catalogue and if they are not you should speak to someone in the Show Secretary’s office.
Day of the Show – you should always make sure you know which day of the show your breed is being judged. Different groups of dogs, e.g. Terriers or Hounds can be judged on different days. Take a water bowl and food (the latter for both dog and human!) Start time – you should always allow plenty of time for your journey, there are very often queues of traffic going into the show. You do not register when you get there but the first thing you should do is to find your bench and settle your dog.
Judging usually begins at 10 am but for larger breeds it can start at 9 am. See your schedule for more information.
Order of Judging – this is printed in the catalogue and sometimes enclosed on a leaflet with your ‘Exhibitors Pass’. This will show when and where your breed is to be judged.
Judging takes place in a... Ring – this is an area of ground cordoned off which contains a table on which the judge will examine each dog. At outdoor shows there will always be a separate ring under cover where judging can take place if the weather is unkind. You should make sure you know where to find this. This ring is often called the “wet weather accommodation”. Before you go to the ring you should make sure that you have your…….
Ring Number – you will find this at the top of your bench. It will be the same as your bench number. This is to be displayed on your person so that spectators can identify your dog and look it up in the catalogue. (The judge does not have access to the catalogue until after the show!!)
Judge – a person who is qualified to judge your breed and, for Championship Shows, is approved by the Kennel Club to judge at that level.
Ring Stewards – are present in every show ring and will instruct you where to stand. They will also make sure that you are displaying the correct ring number. Showing your dog – the normal procedure is for all dogs to enter the ring, not in any particular order, but they all stand in a line. Dogs are normally shown on a slip lead, this is a nylon lead used specifically for showing and can be bought at the shows.
The judge will sometimes ask the first exhibitor to lead all the exhibitors around the ring, once or sometimes twice. By doing this, the judge makes his or her first assessment of the dogs in the class. Always make sure that you walk with the dog nearest the judge, i.e. do not position yourself between the dog and the judge (or the judge will not be able to see your dog properly). The judge will then examine each dog on the table. You will hold the dog in position to make it easier for the judge. The judge will then ask you to move your dog, usually by walking it in a triangle shape so that he/she can get a view of the dog’s back, front and side movement (gait). You will then return to the line of exhibitors. When the last dog has been walked you should have your dog ready to look its best before the final decision is made. Sometimes a tit bit will help your dog look more alert. Some breeds are shown on a loose lead, some are “stacked” (held by the exhibitor with the dogs head and tail placed to show off the dog’s outline). In classes where there are a lot of entries the judge may select several dogs from the class for a closer look. This is known as “being pulled out” or “making the cut”. The judge will then place normally 5 dogs, 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc. When the judge is satisfied with the placings, he or she will tell the steward who will hand out the prize cards. If you are not placed you may leave the ring, but you should wait until you are satisfied that the judging is finished. If you win 1st, 2nd (sometimes 3rd) place the judge will ask you to stand and continue to show your dog for a little while whilst the critique is done. He or she will make brief notes and will enlarge upon this after the show.
These critiques are sent to Dog World and Our Dogs for publication. When all the classes of one sex have been judged the unbeaten winning dogs will be called back into the ring to challenge for the……….
Challenge Certificate (C.C. or sometimes known as the ‘ticket’). This is a certificate which the judge signs stating that in his or her opinion the dog is worthy of becoming a Show Champion. These certificates are awarded by The Kennel Club (the dog world’s governing body who licence all shows) and a special certificate is posted to the exhibitor by The Kennel Club at a later date. Your dog will need three of these awards, given by different judges before he/she becomes a Champion. This status is also awarded by The Kennel Club. The judge has the right to withhold the CC (and RCC) if he does not think any dog entered in any class is worthy of being a Champion. The Reserve Challenge Certificate -
All unbeaten winning dogs then challenge for this award. This certificate states that the dog given this award is worthy of being awarded the CC should the certificate winner be disqualified. This doesn’t happen very often! It is at the judge’s discretion to call into the ring the dog place second to the CC winner.
Best of Breed – the Dog CC winner and the bitch CC winner then compete for Best of Breed. This exhibit then enters the group for his breed. This is judged towards the end of the show and is very often judged by a different judge to the breed classes. Normally it is an experienced judge who judges more than one breed at Championship show level. The winner of the group then challenges the other winners of the other groups and eventually the Best in Show award is made. Secretary (office) – the Show Secretary has an office on the showground to deal with any queries.
Show Manager – deals with the organisation of the showground. Veterinary Surgeon – is present on every showground.
Results – see your results displayed on the showground and on-line. Crufts Qualifications – you have to qualify your dog at General Championship shows before you can show at Crufts Dog Show.
Not for competition (NFC) – dogs may be entered ‘not for competition’. This means a bench will be provided for your dog but it cannot compete in the show. Other Awards – There are two other significant awards that can be added as a suffix after the dog name……..
JW – for Junior Warrant
Sh.CM – Show Certificate of Merit is gained at Open Shows only.
Different types of Dog Shows Championship Shows - Challenge Certificates are on offer for most breeds. They are normally large shows, lasting a few days. Your dog does not, however, have to have done any previous winning to attend these shows.
Open Shows – a smaller type of show, open to all. Champions can be entered but not many are. Quite often dogs and bitches of one breed are judged together.
Limited Shows – these are limited to 75 classes and any dog that has won either a CC or any win that counts towards the status of Champion is ineligible for entry.
Match meetings – locally run training classes for the show ring. CC winners cannot enter.


Author: http://www.dog.biz/show_terminology.htm

Points are awarded as follows:

Top Dog & Bitch Awards

1st = 5 points
2nd = 4 points
3rd = 3 points
res = 2 points
vhc = 1 point

Only the highest award won will be counted, so if you entered 2 classes and won 1st in one and 2nd in the other, you would be awarded 5 points for the 1st prize.

The following additional points are awarded:

CC + BOB = 8 points
CC + BOS = 7 points
RCC = 5 points

Top Puppy Award

Same as above, except an additional 5 points are awarded for Best Puppy.
Author: Krys Greenland

Points are as follows:

The classes must be for Siberian Huskies (not varieties) and must have a judge from the current SHCGB judges list. There doesn't have to be a minimum number of
dogs in the class.

5 points for a first, 4 for second, 3 for third, 2 for fourth and 1 for fifth. BOB gets an extra 2 points and BP gets an extra 1 point. The points are awarded on your best
placing in one class, so if you were 2nd in graduate and 3rd in open, with the same dog, you would only get 4 points (being your best placing out of the two classes).
If a puppy was to win a class and get BOB (also auto get BP) points would be 5 for the win, 2 for BOB and 1 for BP - 8 points in total.

No extra points are awarded for group placings or best in show etc.

It is your responsibility to inform the points collator of your wins - show name, date, judges name, place awarded and class awarded in and of course dogs registered
name are needed. Points total runs from 1st Jan to 31st Dec each year and should be sent in as soon as possible as it's an administrative headache if everyones full
years details are received at the end of the year!!
Author: Sherrie Unwin

We started taking our pups to Ringcraft as soon as they were old enough to go out for walks etc. Its great for socialising your pup with other dogs and other people

However even before you go to Ringcraft you can practice 'standing' your pup for just a few seconds at a time and rewarding with a piece of biscuit or cheese - make it fun for your pup and praise lots for them standing still even if its just for a split second! Also practice getting pup to follow you perhaps up and down the hallway and encourage them to trot at your side for a biscuit - it will be so much easier when you get to Ringcraft classes if you've done a little bit a training first to get the pups attention.

Author: Erika Smales

As long as you know the basic procedures of exhibition in the showring, in my opinion you should start training your pup at home, now. This way you can do lots of very short bursts of training, and they are fun for the pup. I always start training pups to stand from a young age, making it into a game with lots of treats involved. The key is to do it little and often, as a pups concentration span is not very much. As the pup gets older, you make it into less of a game, and get them to stand for longer with less treats. Always reward at the end. When you start going to ringcraft your pup will be well ahead, and can spend more time on the socialising side. Please becareful that when you do go to ringcraft that the trainer doesn't teach your Siberian to stand like a rigid statue, with no personality. Standing still is one thing, but looking like a lifeless shell is another

I also train puppies to walk on the lead at an early age. I start with just an ordinary collar and lead, and start by walking them around with their favourite toy or treat allowing them to go in whatever direction they like to -again like a game. Always stick to a slow walking pace. As the pup becomes more confident and older, I start using a very basic 'show lead', then start teaching the pup to walk around in a big circle, in a triangle and straight up and down. The key to this again is to do it in short bursts, and very often, to reward with something they really like, and to encourage them on all the time. When they are very confident with this, I introduce the most common kind of show lead which is the check chain.

I have often found that the dogs I have had more of a problem with in the showring are ones that have not started their training at an early age. Training at a younger age shouldn't and needn't be intense, but should be done in short bursts. The pups we have at home at the mo are 7 weeks, and, when they come running over, I pick them up one by one, give them lots of fuss and attention, and then, at the end, set them back on the ground holding them and just say stand. They stand there wagging their tails, happy as larry and then go running off to play. It will stand you in great stead for when you start ringcraft, where you and pup will perfect the art.


Author: Krystyan Greenland

Many equipment suppliers advertise in the Club's magazine which is sent out to all members. There are also a number of suppliers on the links page
www.siberianhuskyclub.com/links
Author:

A springer is an American thingy specially designed for exercising dogs from a bicycle at a pace they are naturally comfortable with..ie, not a slow walk!
Basically it's a big 'U' shaped metal tube which clamps onto the frame of a bike just under the saddle, There is a big spring on the outside stem of the 'U' which acts as a shock absorber between your bike and the dog, who should be attached on a sensible length of lead ( we use necklines) to the loop at the top of the spring.
If you use this set-up correctly your dog should have its nose about level with the front wheel of the bike (and is therefore not pulling it) also unless your dog is very badly trained and jumps all over you and the bike, it is safely on your left and out of the way of anything passing on your right.
Author: Debi Scott

I have an excellent piece of kit. Made from stainless steel, it bolts around the head stock of the bike with a piece of sprung steel that holds the gang line off the front wheel and gives some lateral movement. I have run a 4-dog team with this, but usually I only run 2 in training.
The dogs must be in front, not to the side. Lateral movement is very important for safe steering, which cannot be achieved with the dog at the side of the bike. The lines are the same as on a rig / sled, the gang line is attached to the head stock the sprung steel only holds the line off the wheel. Before going to the expense of having this sort of thing made. Try a fishing rod lashed to the cross bar, extending over the front wheel. This will hold the lines off the front wheel and give some side ways movement.


Author: Dave Hemmins

Look at the distributors website at www.springer-uk.com or ring them directly on 01268 540060.
Author: Guy Redwood

I have used a springer but mostly to exercise our Samoyed Kim before she found a running partner to work in harness with.
Firstly the 'plastic quick-release clips' and 'thin rope' provided went straight in the bin, it was quite obvious that they would never be strong enough to trust with these dogs or Sibes!!!
I replaced these with a neckline (made in length, including the brass clips, to the measurement from the end of the large spring to the top of the dogs shoulders). This was clipped to the springer and then to the dogs harness above the shoulders as I used one of the walking-style harnesses. The working ones I found too long and allow the dog to run too far forward and be able to cut in front of the wheel at any time if they spot anything! It also 'holds' the dog out sideways enough away from the bike.
This set-up works perfectly well for me as I feel more in control of any sudden change of direction from the dog (the only free-movement being what the bounce of the spring itself allows).
Author: Steve & Andrea Taylor

SORRY
But I think the springer is DANGEROUS to train or exercise a Siberian with.
It may be OK for other breeds but not a sibe.
"Until comparatively recently the Siberian Husky has been strictly a working dog used for pulling sleds, hunting. As a result they are a very natural breed, in the sense that they are close to nature. While they are charming with people and get along well with other dogs, they are also lethal hunters and love to roam."
When the PULLING instinct kicks in, or a squirrel crosses the trail just in front of you and the HUNT is on ( and it will ) you will be pulled off the bike sideways. Lateral movement is very important for safe steering, which cannot be achieved with the dog at the side of the bike. The gang line and dog or dogs must by in front to give you a chance to control your dog.
I am not against Bike-Joring, I do train my team this way and would like to see Bike-Joring classes at rallies but it must be done safely. It is not safe with the fixing / pulling point at the side.

Author: Dave Hemmins

I just wanted to say I have used a springer for years and think they are great. I use it with two Mals. I know they don't normally pull but they do when something
edible is in front of them!! I have only had one mishap and that was when they spotted several loose Rottweilers in the dark. Can you blame them!
Author: Kim Franklin

Hi, i have to disagree that huskies cannot use a springer device, i used to run a husky and malamute in this device and have had no problems, they were introduced to the springer device and took around half a day to train, they had never been run in harness before but took to it very quickly, at first they tried running in front on the bike but to start of with you cycle quite slow using your brakes!! within an afternoon they have taken to it and are loveing the exercise!!
I have 2 elderly friends who use a springer on a daily basis, the husband had a mal on one side, a northern inuit on the other side!! and the wife has her samoyed attached to a springer on her bike, they bought the devices last year, all the dogs are adults and had never ran in harness before, plus my friends are both in their 70's!! they have never come across any problems or found the springer device unsafe in any way whatsoever.

So if they can take their dogs out anyone can!
Author: Jo

Introduction
Here I describe how to make your own gangline out of polyethelene rope. I prefer gangline made out of rope, or rope with cable inside. Many mushers, particularly those with large numbers of dogs, use cable (coated or uncoated) or rope with cable inside. I do not describe how to make these ganglines here. Only rope ganglines.

Making your own gangline is simple, provided you know what the gangline should look like and how it is supposed to function. The basic idea is to get the dogs running side by side, in a tightly coupled line very near to the lengthwise axis of symmetry of the sled. This naturally increases the pulling efficiency of the dogs, as pulling in the tangential directions is minimized.


What is a Gangline?
The gangline is the series of ropes, clips, cables, and so on that attach your team of sled dogs to your sled. There are effectively three components to a gangline: the tow line, tug lines, and neck lines. The tow line is typically made out of 3/8 inch polyethelene rope. It connects to the sled and runs up between the dogs which are hitched side by side on either side of the tow line. To the tow line, the tug lines are attached. These are usually made out of 1/4 inch poly rope and are "braided" into the tow line. The tug lines attach to the harnesses on the dogs. Finally, the neck line, also 1/4 inch poly rope, is also braided into the tow line and attaches to the dogs collar. The dog does not pull from this line, and you should be sure to design your gangline such that this does not happen. It is merely used to keep the dog close to the tow line, thereby maximizing pulling strength.


The shock absorber is usually made out of a combination of shock cord and tow line material. Many use this to minimize shock on the wheel dogs as the sled traverses a trail. Some sleds have a shock absorbing device built in (I have three sleds, only one of which has a built-in shock absorber).


How to Make a Gangline
Ganglines are usually made in sections consisting of two dogs, one on each side of the tow line. Two team sections and a lead section. Depending on the number of dogs you run, and how you want to run them, you may need to make one or more sections. Each section is made with a loop on each end of the tow line, thus allowing you to hook as many sections together as needed.

For those that only have two dogs, you may only wish to make a leader section of gangline. The leader section is the one at the front of the above drawing. The difference between the leader sections and the team sections is simple. In the team sections, the neck lines and tug lines are braided into the tow line. In the leader section, only the tug lines are braided into the tow line. The neck line is simply a small section of 1/4 poly with a brass clip on each end, to attach the two dogs together. However, if you wish to run only one lead dog, and run your other dog single file, you will need to make both a team section and a lead section of gang line. Even those that have single leaders, but multiple dogs, will probably want to make their ganglines in the manner I am going to describe.

In the follwing sections, techniques for "stitching" and "braiding" rope are discussed, as well as the basics for making team and lead sections of gangline.

Stitching and Braiding Rope

To make all of the sections, you will have to make loops in the lines and braid (or stitch) two pieces of rope together. This is accomplished using a device called a fid. A fid is a hollow plastic or aluminum tube, with a point (not a sharp point, often blunt) on one end. In the other end, the rope is inserted. You can then use the fid as a needle, and thread the rope into itself several times to make a loop, or thread one rope through another to join pieces of rope. This only works well with poly (polyethelene) rope. Fids should be available at your local hardware store. Just think of a fid as a special needle, allowing you to "sew" with the rope. Fids come in different sizes, so be sure and get the two sizes you will need to make your gangline.


To make a loop in a line, insert the end of the rope into the fid. Next, with the fid in your right hand, pull approximately 12 inches of rope between your right and left hands. Then, take your right hand and push the fid all the way through the rope at something less than it's midpoint. Pull the rope through intil the loop is the size that you want. Then, push the fid all the way through the rope in the opposite direction, and pull it tight. Repeat this process until there it becomes difficult to turn the fid around and continue. At this point, you will have several "stitches" in the rope that will hold the loop.

To finish the loop off, insert the fid into the rope and run it inside the rope, lengthwise, away from the loop. Then poke the end of the fid out the side of the rope and remove it. The result will be that the remaining rope inside the fid will be left inside the middle of the rope, leaving no loose ends. Practice this with some rope before you begin making your gangline.


For extra holding strength, I often loop the fid and rope back through my last stitch.


To braid pieces of rope together, you effectively do the same thing as you would when making a loop. However, in this case, the fid is on the smaller rope (the 1/4 inch) for the tug line. You will have to be extra careful here, as you will need plenty of rope for the tug line because you need to make a loop in the end for the brass clip, and have enough to braid through the tow line and make the tug for the opposite side. This is described in more detail below.

Team Section

I cannot provide exact measurements here, as these may vary depending on the size of your dogs. However, the idea here is to construct a section of rope, in the neighborhood of 5 feet long or so, with the tug and necklines attached at the right places. Begin with a section of 3/8 poly and make a tow line, about 5 or 6 feet long. In either end of the tow line, put a nice big, secure, loop. Then make the tug lines. Here, you will need a long piece of 1/4 poly. About 6 inches from one of the loops in the tow line, run the tug line through the towline (using the fid). The tricky part here is to get the length of the tugline correct. You want the dogs to each pull in line from the tow line, not against one another, close to the tow line. This usually means about 30 inches of tug line (on each side), but not necessarily, You will have to experiment with your dogs to get this right. Once you have selected a length for one of the tug lines, double the 1/4 poly back through the tow line a couple of times, coming out on the opposite side of the tugline you just made. The idea here is that while you are making both of the tug lines from one piece of rope, you do not want the rope to slip through the tow line. Next, cut the rope off at the correct point for the opposite side tugline. The tug lines on each side of the gangline should be the same length. Any differences in dog sizes, if severe enough, are usually made up in the neckline.

Next, work on the necklines. You can either place the necklines in different locations given dog sizes, or place them in the same location and make them different lengths, or make them exactly the same. It is up to you. However, the distance between the connection points for the tug lines in a team section and a given neckline should be whatever the distance is from the connection point on the dog's harness to the connection point on the dog's collar (some slack is fine, but don't put in too much). Here, the method for attaching the neckline to the tow line is the same as for the tug lines.

Finally, you need to attach brass clips to the end of the neck lines and tug lines. This is accomplished by making a loop in the end of the ropes, but with the clips inserted into the rope before you make the loops. A nice additional touch is to add a very small loop of small cotton rope to the tow line. This allows you to clip the loose ends of the gangline (the neck lines and tug lines) to the tow line for storage.

Lead Section

This section is made the same as a team section, with a couple of important differences. First, you need only loop the back of the tow line. Second, the tug lines are braided at the end (or near it) of the opposte end of the tow line. Third, the neckline is not braided into the tow line at all, but rather is a piece of 1/4 in poly with clips on either end that attached to the two lead dog's collars. Otherwise, the construction steps and methods are the same as for the team section.

Shock Absorber

This is a simple device made from tow line rope and bungee cord. Simply put two loops in the end of 3/8 poly rope. Once the loops are made, this small piece should be approximately 8-12 inches long. Then, take some bungee cord and wind it around and around, passing it through the loops on each of the rope each time. Make about 4-6 wraps. Make sure that as you wind the bungee cord through the loops, you make the diameter of the loops about 1/2 the length of the rope. This means that the rope will hang down because the bungee cord wraps are shorter than the length of the rope. Once this is done, secure the bungee cord with some wire clamps. You now have a rather odd looking device, one with a loop on each end, with bungee cord looped between the loops, and extra rope hanging between the loops. It will be obvious at hookup time what the purpose for this is.




Hooking It All Together
To hook the team and lead sections together, simply loop the two loops together and pull taught, the front of the team section to the back of the lead section. If you always make your ganglines this way, you will be able to remove team sections and replace as need be (or add to them if you get more dogs!).
The shock absorber should go between the sled and the first team section. I use locking climbing carabeeners to hook the gangline to the sled. Therefore, you will take your carabeeners and hook one to a rope loop on the shock absorber and to the loop on the team section. The other carabeener goes to the other rope loop on the shock absorber and to the sled. Do not hook the carabeeners directly to the bungee! The function of the shock absorber should now be clear. As the dogs pull, they pull against the bungee wrap, not the rope directly. However, should the bungee break, which it will eventually do, the remaining rope in the shock absorber is there to hold the dogs. This gives the dogs more comfort while pulling, and helps to minimize jolts. For sleds that have this built in, making your own is clearly not necessary. However, I use mine on my two sleds that do not have it build in, as well as my training rig.

For those with only two dogs there are a couple of hook-up options. First, you can run them both in lead, which would mean you would only need the lead section (no team section). Second, you could run them one behind the other. In this case, you would hook both tug lines from the lead section to your lead dog, and not use a neckline at all. In your team section, you can hook both tugs and neck lines to your dog, or if you added the cotton rope loops, you can hook just one tug and one neck to the dog, and leave the other two hooked to the cotton rope for storage. It is up to you. For two dogs, I recommend trying them as dual leaders first.

I have found that these ganglines are convienient and easy to make, and have served me well. I can replace sections as needed, and I can add to or remove sections as the number of dogs in my kennel changes. I hope that you will also find them useful.


Author:

It depends on what you are doing. If you are into recreational mushing, Bikejouring, or racing, you should probably go with an X-back harness. This harness is the most popular and most outfitters know how to get them right. Don't buy a "roading" harness or anything like that from your local pet store -- they are too constrictive and your dog can have trouble breathing. If you are into weightpulling, there is a special harness for that. It has a single-tree or spreader bar that keeps the straps off of the dog's legs and keeps the weight low.
Author:

Some say the H back is more comfortable for a dog, especialy over distance, but must be fitted properly.
Author: B Terry

Besides cost, a bolted sled is less flexible and more apt to break than a tied sled. If you are not sure you want to outlay the money for a tied sled and may not be into mushing in the future, then go with a bolted sled, but realize you get what you pay for. If you are sure you are going to continue in the sport, opt for the more expensive tied sled, it is well worth it.

Author:

The QCR or Quick Change Runner system, is one of the better innovations to have come along in recent years. Very simply, the QCR is two aluminum pieces that are screwed into the runner bases where you can slide runner plastic on and off. This eliminates the need for gluing or bolting and unbolting sled runners when you need to change them -- many sprint mushers now put on new runner plastic before each race to give them an extra edge. QCR plastic is available in a number of sizes and densities and the system fits both basket and toboggan sleds.

Author:

Use cordura or polar fleece booties. Don't mess with leather or rubber booties you get from pet shop -- they are expensive and will be nearly worthless. Novices make the mistake of buying booties too big. Get one that fit pretty close to the feet (like a glove or sock). You want the bootie tight enough to keep on, but not so tight to cut off circulation.
Author:

http://www.samsonrope.com/home/recmarine/splicing/index.cfm
Author:

We would prefer you to contact us at all times through email. We will aim to reply were necessary as soon as possible. The easiest way of sending an email is to use
our feedback form

If you like to send emails directly here are the email adresses for some of the committee.

Chairperson - chairperson@siberianhuskyclub.com
Welfare - welfare@siberianhuskyclub.com
Secretary - secretary@siberianhuskyclub.com
Treasurer - treasurer@siberianhuskyclub.com
Merchandise - merchandise@siberianhuskyclub.com
Membership Secretary - membership@siberianhuskyclub.com
All comments regarding the website should be sent to the Webmaster on Webmaster@siberianhuskyclub.com.

The SHCGB contact telephone number, including Welfare enquiries, is 0871 277 6783.

Author: Webmaster

Just like a human athlete, a sled dog's diet affects the dog’s ability to compete. A sled dog at rest in the summer needs about 800 calories per day. In the middle of a cold winter long distance race that same dog may need up to 10,000 calories per day (10,000 is not a typo!). The quest to provide sled dogs with enough calories and the right type of calories has resulted in tremendous growth in our knowledge about the canine diet, and better food for both the racing dog and house pets.

A canine athlete does not digest and use food in the same way as humans. The high carbohydrate diet that helps a human runner perform at his or her peak will not have the same effect on a sled dog. Studies by veterinarians and dog food manufacturers have found that a high carbohydrate diet actually lowers canine performance.
Fats and protein are the most important sources of energy for a sled dog. The ratio of fat and protein varies depending on the distance to be run and the time spent running, however, certain minimum requirements have been determined. A typical diet consists of 32% protein, 15% carbohydrates and 53% fat.
Fats provide the dog with quick energy. They are highly digestible and very dense in calories. Protein helps a dog handle the physical demands of racing and is required in greater amounts as physical activity increases.
Dog mushers rarely rely on dry dog kibble alone to supply their dogs nutritional needs. A top quality dry dog food is critical to the diet but it is usually supplemented by ground chicken, fish, liver or other meat products.
Finally, it is not enough to provide quality food unless the dogs are supplied with clean water. Water is the most important part of a dog's diet. Contrary to popular myths, sled dogs do not get their water supply by eating snow. Snow requires tremendous energy to melt as it is consumed and it offers little water for much effort. By contrast, warm water after a night in the cold can be to the sled dog a lot like a hot chocolate drink is to a human. On the other hand, it is not unusual to see a sled dog grab a bite of snow, just like you enjoy an ice cream cone now and then!
Gee, that dog looks thin?
A frequently heard remark at races is that the dogs seem thin. Indeed, compared to a house dog who may get out for a walk or short run a couple times a week, sled dogs are thin. Although sled dogs consume more calories than an average human, they also burn those calories working out in training. Like human runners, the intake of calories and exercise result in a slim, athletic physique. Mushers monitor the weight of their dogs, feeding them accordingly. If the dogs gain too much weight, they risk overheating, disease and injury. If they are too thin they lose stamina. Mushers balance these considerations and maintain their dogs at a healthy weight for each particular dog.

Author:

I raw feed mine, as do a few other sibe people. Basically I feed a diet based on raw meaty bones like chicken wings, chicken carcass, lamb breast/ribs, turkey carcass, chicken necks and rabbit carcass when I can get it. I feed them ground as my oldest are gulpers and have forgotten how to chew. To this I add a bit of extra minced meat without bone, like chicken, turkey, lamb, beef or fish and also chuck in a bit of tripe, heart, liver, kidney, egg, sardines, or tuna, it used to take me a little while to get the dogs food sorted but once you get into things and develop a routine and once you get your supplies sorted it takes next to no time. The longest bit is grinding up and making the veggie part, but this is such a small amount you can save time by making a big batch, freezing it and then just defrost what you need.
I find the dogs enjoy this diet so much more than dried kibble and it is reflected in their general well being and health. It is much easier to get them to maintain weight and control their toilet habits. I had problems with both of older dogs with loose motions. kavik actually has a mild digestive disorder and he has improved loads on this diet. the only con I can think of is having to buy 2 extra freezers to store all their meat, it works out cheaper to buy in bulk.
If you want to feed both kibble and raw, make sure you feed them seperate times.
Anyway hope this help, there is loads of info on the net, loads of e mail list and boards and loads of books give me a shout if you want some links or more info. i would say to research it properly as you do need to be committed and careful to ensure you do provide a balanced diet. if done wrong it can be easy to cause imbalances in the diet and possibly health problems,

Author: kelly Donaldson

I would recommend you get a book or two on the BARF diet, those most well known are by Ian Billinghurst, the first, Give your Dog a Bone, will give you the basics and his last one is useful for amendments to this diet.

Lynn Harrison has written a useful article which can be found on the Brushbow website (http://members.aol.com/Brushbow/src/species.htm) under Species Appropriate Diet. This is really good for people just starting out.

As Kelly said, do lots of research and if you do want to take the plunge, you will never look back! Good luck.
Author: Sue Blake

As a housing manager and having been on the receiving end of planning enforcement action, I have gained some expertise in these matters and hope the following information may help:

1. Council (and Housing Association) Tenants. Best advice is to read the tenancy agreement carefully, if it says that you are not allowed to keep more than a certain number of dogs, or maybe in some properties no dogs at all, then if you take no notice and have more than the allowed number, then you are in breach of your tenancy conditions, whether the dogs are a nuisance or not. I have not actually taken action to evict anyone for this kind of breach, but I do know that several councils have. In a clear breach like that, there is unlikely to be a successful defence.
The more usual kind of action is for nuisance, and in these cases, the Council has to actually prove that there is a nuisance AND that it is reasonable for the jusdge to make an eviction order. It can be difficult to prove this because the landlord has to gather evidence to present in court and often the only way of doing this is to get the complainants to give evidence. Often they won't. However, there was a case reported recently where someone with Siberians was evicted because of nuisance.

2. Planning. Different Councils interpret this differently, but most have some sort of cut-off point in numbers, and say that over that number, the use of the property changes from purely residential. In our area it is six dogs, and technically if you want to keep more than six dogs in Powys, you have to get Planning Permission for change of use. In practice, you wouldn't normally voluntarily seek Planning Permission, unless you were setting up some sort of commercial kennels. However, if you are brought officially to the Authority's attention in some way, then they will take enforcement action. That's what happened to us, one of our dogs escaped and killed some sheep, the farmer complained, and although the authority had unofficially been aware of us for some time, now they had to take action. We were lucky, we applied for and got Planning Permission.

3. Environmental Health. This department can take action to control nuisance, usually noise, but sometimes other things like bad smells and unhygenic premises. Again they need evidence, often collected by means of noise monitors. The advice to co-operate is sound, they're not going to waste time taking cases to court that they're not going to win, so it's best to convince them that there is no nuisance in the first place. There have, however, been some cases of proven (to the court's satisfaction, that is) nuisance and folk have had to re-home their dogs.

Author: Lyn Hall

YES !
Author:

I have two cats that my siberian husky has been brought up with since he was 8 weeks old, and I have managed to teach him to respect them, BUT I have to admit that I wudn't trust him left on his ow own with them apart from when I am in the house to supervise or when I am asleep at night. It is in their nature to kill small animals, soo if the worst happens you cant blame your husky !
Author: BABS EDWARDS

They will not change, you have to stop bringing small animals which they sees as fair game into her domain.
My oldest is 8yrs and she has the same traits, its natural to them.

Author: Ann Shaw

5-4-3-2-1…For the dog lover, visiting a sled dog rally can be a day of husky-heaven but to ensure you and the competitors get the most out of the racing, please
bear in mind the following points:

If you have to bring a pet dog to the rally, make sure he is secure on the lead AT ALL TIMES and keep him well clear of the trail when the teams are running. Our
huskies are well trained but are not robots! Another dog at the side of the trail can be extremely distracting for the teams which may be racing past you at speeds in
excess of 25 mph. Also bear in mind that your pet may not really enjoy the company of 200+ extremely noisy sled dogs!

The event organisers know the trail well and they’ll be able to advise you of the best spots to stand and watch the action. If you don’t want to venture that far, the
Start Chute is noisy and hectic but seeing the excitement of teams of dogs raring to go is not to be missed. The Finish line is noisy too but this time it won’t be the
huskies making the racket but enthusiastic family and friends calling in their favourite teams.

If you do venture out onto the trail, please stand well back and try not to startle passing teams with sudden movement. Huskies can be extremely sociable and you
wouldn’t want a large team to suddenly race up to you to say hello! There will be race officials (marshals) out on the trail so please take notice of any instructions they
may give you.

Part of the fun is to walk around the rally site, watching the mushers prepare their teams to run. Most people are only too happy to chat about their dogs but bear in
mind that teams have to be at the Start Chute at strict set times so if someone seems too busy to talk, pop back later when they’ve finished their run.

Never offer treats and please ask the handler before petting any dog. Huskies are strong and can be boisterous so please keep any small children in hand.

The club does not charge for spectating, however the venue may charge for entry or parking.

But beyond that wrap up warm, bring your camera and have fun.

Author: Mel Hannam

The Siberian Husky was originally developed by the Chukchi people of northeastern Siberia as an endurance sled dog. They were also used to herd reindeer. In 1909, the first large numbers of these Chukchi dogs were brought to Alaska to compete in the long-distance All-Alaska Sweepstakes races, and the Alaskan dog drivers quickly recognized the ability of these small, compact dogs from Siberia.
In the winter of 1925, when a diphtheria epidemic broke out in the isolated town of Nome, Alaska, a relay of dog teams brought life-saving serum from distant Nenana. This heroic endeavor earned national prominence for the drivers and their dogs. One of these drivers, Leonhard Seppala, brought his team of Siberian Huskies, descendants of the original imports from Siberia, to the United States on a personal appearance tour. While in New England he competed in sled dog races and again proved the superiority of Siberian Huskies over the native dogs. The New England drivers and pioneer fanciers acquired foundation stock, earned AKC recognition for the breed in 1930, and founded the Siberian Husky Club of America in 1938.
The Siberian Husky Club of Great Britin was founded in 1977


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Training Siberian Huskies can be a challenge. They are an extremely intelligent, energetic, and stubborn breed, and one must be ready for the unexpected. Training should start when the dog is young. You should work to establish the rules of the house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as a puppy and never give in, even once, or the dog will think that all rules are flexible. The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to do them as adults.
Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog will respect you and training will be much easier. It is very important to understand the distinction between establishing yourself as alpha and bullying the dog into submission. These are not the same thing! The former is simply a communication that the dog needs and expects, while the latter is very negative and detrimental to the dog's well-being. By establishing yourself as the leader of the pack early, your dog will learn to respect you and look to you for guidance and will know where the boundaries for acceptable behavior lie. It is best to enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of its vaccinations. This training is good for the dog and for you as the owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish you as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is important with this breed. Once you have completed the puppy class, and have been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience class is in order.

Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely challenging. Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly in class, but will not obey at home. This breed is intelligent enough to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules of behavior for different situations. You must stay on top of the dog and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of manageable size than with a stubborn, energetic adult that has been allowed to get away with undesirable behavior for a long time.

It is very important to remember that the Siberian Husky is a working breed. His heritage has endowed him with the desire to run and his conformation has given him the ability to enjoy it effortlessly. Because of this, it is important that no Siberian ever be allowed unrestrained freedom. In addition, most Siberians have a strong predator drive that can translate into trouble. This is usually directed toward neighborhood cats, birds, rodents, and other small animals. For his own protection, he should be confined and under control at all times. Since he is a working dog, he must be given something to do. Exercise may be obtained in the leash, at play, and best of all, through mushing. Siberians make wonderful hiking companions, and with a dog backpack, can carry food and water. Above all, if you feel that it is inconvenient or cruel to keep a dog confined and under control like this, then the Siberian Husky is not the breed for you.


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No. The Siberian Husky is a domesticated pure bred dog and has been for many centuries. They are sometimes mistaken for wolves, and they are sometimes used in movies to depict wolves, but they are most certainly not wolves or part wolf.

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This is called a "snow nose", and is fairly common in Siberians. A snow nose is a reddish or pink marking on a black or liver colored nose. Snow nose can disappear over warmer months and reappear over the winter months. There is nothing wrong with a snow nose, and it is perfectly acceptable in the Siberians.

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This is called a "pinto eye", a "parti eye", or a "split eye." It is also fairly common in the Siberians. One or both eyes may be all blue with a brown pie shaped wedge, or all brown with a blue wedge. At first glance, it may appear that there is something wrong with the eye but there is not. It is simply a matter if pigmentation. This too is perfectly acceptable in the Siberians.

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