Just like a human athlete, a sled dog's diet affects the dog’s ability to compete. A sled dog at rest in the summer needs about 800 calories per day. In the middle of a cold winter long distance race that same dog may need up to 10,000 calories per day (10,000 is not a typo!). The quest to provide sled dogs with enough calories and the right type of calories has resulted in tremendous growth in our knowledge about the canine diet, and better food for both the racing dog and house pets.

A canine athlete does not digest and use food in the same way as humans. The high carbohydrate diet that helps a human runner perform at his or her peak will not have the same effect on a sled dog. Studies by veterinarians and dog food manufacturers have found that a high carbohydrate diet actually lowers canine performance.
Fats and protein are the most important sources of energy for a sled dog. The ratio of fat and protein varies depending on the distance to be run and the time spent running, however, certain minimum requirements have been determined. A typical diet consists of 32% protein, 15% carbohydrates and 53% fat.
Fats provide the dog with quick energy. They are highly digestible and very dense in calories. Protein helps a dog handle the physical demands of racing and is required in greater amounts as physical activity increases.
Dog mushers rarely rely on dry dog kibble alone to supply their dogs nutritional needs. A top quality dry dog food is critical to the diet but it is usually supplemented by ground chicken, fish, liver or other meat products.
Finally, it is not enough to provide quality food unless the dogs are supplied with clean water. Water is the most important part of a dog's diet. Contrary to popular myths, sled dogs do not get their water supply by eating snow. Snow requires tremendous energy to melt as it is consumed and it offers little water for much effort. By contrast, warm water after a night in the cold can be to the sled dog a lot like a hot chocolate drink is to a human. On the other hand, it is not unusual to see a sled dog grab a bite of snow, just like you enjoy an ice cream cone now and then!
Gee, that dog looks thin?
A frequently heard remark at races is that the dogs seem thin. Indeed, compared to a house dog who may get out for a walk or short run a couple times a week, sled dogs are thin. Although sled dogs consume more calories than an average human, they also burn those calories working out in training. Like human runners, the intake of calories and exercise result in a slim, athletic physique. Mushers monitor the weight of their dogs, feeding them accordingly. If the dogs gain too much weight, they risk overheating, disease and injury. If they are too thin they lose stamina. Mushers balance these considerations and maintain their dogs at a healthy weight for each particular dog.

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I raw feed mine, as do a few other sibe people. Basically I feed a diet based on raw meaty bones like chicken wings, chicken carcass, lamb breast/ribs, turkey carcass, chicken necks and rabbit carcass when I can get it. I feed them ground as my oldest are gulpers and have forgotten how to chew. To this I add a bit of extra minced meat without bone, like chicken, turkey, lamb, beef or fish and also chuck in a bit of tripe, heart, liver, kidney, egg, sardines, or tuna, it used to take me a little while to get the dogs food sorted but once you get into things and develop a routine and once you get your supplies sorted it takes next to no time. The longest bit is grinding up and making the veggie part, but this is such a small amount you can save time by making a big batch, freezing it and then just defrost what you need.
I find the dogs enjoy this diet so much more than dried kibble and it is reflected in their general well being and health. It is much easier to get them to maintain weight and control their toilet habits. I had problems with both of older dogs with loose motions. kavik actually has a mild digestive disorder and he has improved loads on this diet. the only con I can think of is having to buy 2 extra freezers to store all their meat, it works out cheaper to buy in bulk.
If you want to feed both kibble and raw, make sure you feed them seperate times.
Anyway hope this help, there is loads of info on the net, loads of e mail list and boards and loads of books give me a shout if you want some links or more info. i would say to research it properly as you do need to be committed and careful to ensure you do provide a balanced diet. if done wrong it can be easy to cause imbalances in the diet and possibly health problems,

Author: kelly Donaldson

I would recommend you get a book or two on the BARF diet, those most well known are by Ian Billinghurst, the first, Give your Dog a Bone, will give you the basics and his last one is useful for amendments to this diet.

Lynn Harrison has written a useful article which can be found on the Brushbow website (http://members.aol.com/Brushbow/src/species.htm) under Species Appropriate Diet. This is really good for people just starting out.

As Kelly said, do lots of research and if you do want to take the plunge, you will never look back! Good luck.
Author: Sue Blake

As a housing manager and having been on the receiving end of planning enforcement action, I have gained some expertise in these matters and hope the following information may help:

1. Council (and Housing Association) Tenants. Best advice is to read the tenancy agreement carefully, if it says that you are not allowed to keep more than a certain number of dogs, or maybe in some properties no dogs at all, then if you take no notice and have more than the allowed number, then you are in breach of your tenancy conditions, whether the dogs are a nuisance or not. I have not actually taken action to evict anyone for this kind of breach, but I do know that several councils have. In a clear breach like that, there is unlikely to be a successful defence.
The more usual kind of action is for nuisance, and in these cases, the Council has to actually prove that there is a nuisance AND that it is reasonable for the jusdge to make an eviction order. It can be difficult to prove this because the landlord has to gather evidence to present in court and often the only way of doing this is to get the complainants to give evidence. Often they won't. However, there was a case reported recently where someone with Siberians was evicted because of nuisance.

2. Planning. Different Councils interpret this differently, but most have some sort of cut-off point in numbers, and say that over that number, the use of the property changes from purely residential. In our area it is six dogs, and technically if you want to keep more than six dogs in Powys, you have to get Planning Permission for change of use. In practice, you wouldn't normally voluntarily seek Planning Permission, unless you were setting up some sort of commercial kennels. However, if you are brought officially to the Authority's attention in some way, then they will take enforcement action. That's what happened to us, one of our dogs escaped and killed some sheep, the farmer complained, and although the authority had unofficially been aware of us for some time, now they had to take action. We were lucky, we applied for and got Planning Permission.

3. Environmental Health. This department can take action to control nuisance, usually noise, but sometimes other things like bad smells and unhygenic premises. Again they need evidence, often collected by means of noise monitors. The advice to co-operate is sound, they're not going to waste time taking cases to court that they're not going to win, so it's best to convince them that there is no nuisance in the first place. There have, however, been some cases of proven (to the court's satisfaction, that is) nuisance and folk have had to re-home their dogs.

Author: Lyn Hall

YES !
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I have two cats that my siberian husky has been brought up with since he was 8 weeks old, and I have managed to teach him to respect them, BUT I have to admit that I wudn't trust him left on his ow own with them apart from when I am in the house to supervise or when I am asleep at night. It is in their nature to kill small animals, soo if the worst happens you cant blame your husky !
Author: BABS EDWARDS

They will not change, you have to stop bringing small animals which they sees as fair game into her domain.
My oldest is 8yrs and she has the same traits, its natural to them.

Author: Ann Shaw

5-4-3-2-1…For the dog lover, visiting a sled dog rally can be a day of husky-heaven but to ensure you and the competitors get the most out of the racing, please
bear in mind the following points:

If you have to bring a pet dog to the rally, make sure he is secure on the lead AT ALL TIMES and keep him well clear of the trail when the teams are running. Our
huskies are well trained but are not robots! Another dog at the side of the trail can be extremely distracting for the teams which may be racing past you at speeds in
excess of 25 mph. Also bear in mind that your pet may not really enjoy the company of 200+ extremely noisy sled dogs!

The event organisers know the trail well and they’ll be able to advise you of the best spots to stand and watch the action. If you don’t want to venture that far, the
Start Chute is noisy and hectic but seeing the excitement of teams of dogs raring to go is not to be missed. The Finish line is noisy too but this time it won’t be the
huskies making the racket but enthusiastic family and friends calling in their favourite teams.

If you do venture out onto the trail, please stand well back and try not to startle passing teams with sudden movement. Huskies can be extremely sociable and you
wouldn’t want a large team to suddenly race up to you to say hello! There will be race officials (marshals) out on the trail so please take notice of any instructions they
may give you.

Part of the fun is to walk around the rally site, watching the mushers prepare their teams to run. Most people are only too happy to chat about their dogs but bear in
mind that teams have to be at the Start Chute at strict set times so if someone seems too busy to talk, pop back later when they’ve finished their run.

Never offer treats and please ask the handler before petting any dog. Huskies are strong and can be boisterous so please keep any small children in hand.

The club does not charge for spectating, however the venue may charge for entry or parking.

But beyond that wrap up warm, bring your camera and have fun.

Author: Mel Hannam

The Siberian Husky was originally developed by the Chukchi people of northeastern Siberia as an endurance sled dog. They were also used to herd reindeer. In 1909, the first large numbers of these Chukchi dogs were brought to Alaska to compete in the long-distance All-Alaska Sweepstakes races, and the Alaskan dog drivers quickly recognized the ability of these small, compact dogs from Siberia.
In the winter of 1925, when a diphtheria epidemic broke out in the isolated town of Nome, Alaska, a relay of dog teams brought life-saving serum from distant Nenana. This heroic endeavor earned national prominence for the drivers and their dogs. One of these drivers, Leonhard Seppala, brought his team of Siberian Huskies, descendants of the original imports from Siberia, to the United States on a personal appearance tour. While in New England he competed in sled dog races and again proved the superiority of Siberian Huskies over the native dogs. The New England drivers and pioneer fanciers acquired foundation stock, earned AKC recognition for the breed in 1930, and founded the Siberian Husky Club of America in 1938.
The Siberian Husky Club of Great Britin was founded in 1977


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Training Siberian Huskies can be a challenge. They are an extremely intelligent, energetic, and stubborn breed, and one must be ready for the unexpected. Training should start when the dog is young. You should work to establish the rules of the house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as a puppy and never give in, even once, or the dog will think that all rules are flexible. The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to do them as adults.
Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog will respect you and training will be much easier. It is very important to understand the distinction between establishing yourself as alpha and bullying the dog into submission. These are not the same thing! The former is simply a communication that the dog needs and expects, while the latter is very negative and detrimental to the dog's well-being. By establishing yourself as the leader of the pack early, your dog will learn to respect you and look to you for guidance and will know where the boundaries for acceptable behavior lie. It is best to enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of its vaccinations. This training is good for the dog and for you as the owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish you as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is important with this breed. Once you have completed the puppy class, and have been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience class is in order.

Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely challenging. Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly in class, but will not obey at home. This breed is intelligent enough to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules of behavior for different situations. You must stay on top of the dog and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of manageable size than with a stubborn, energetic adult that has been allowed to get away with undesirable behavior for a long time.

It is very important to remember that the Siberian Husky is a working breed. His heritage has endowed him with the desire to run and his conformation has given him the ability to enjoy it effortlessly. Because of this, it is important that no Siberian ever be allowed unrestrained freedom. In addition, most Siberians have a strong predator drive that can translate into trouble. This is usually directed toward neighborhood cats, birds, rodents, and other small animals. For his own protection, he should be confined and under control at all times. Since he is a working dog, he must be given something to do. Exercise may be obtained in the leash, at play, and best of all, through mushing. Siberians make wonderful hiking companions, and with a dog backpack, can carry food and water. Above all, if you feel that it is inconvenient or cruel to keep a dog confined and under control like this, then the Siberian Husky is not the breed for you.


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No. The Siberian Husky is a domesticated pure bred dog and has been for many centuries. They are sometimes mistaken for wolves, and they are sometimes used in movies to depict wolves, but they are most certainly not wolves or part wolf.

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This is called a "snow nose", and is fairly common in Siberians. A snow nose is a reddish or pink marking on a black or liver colored nose. Snow nose can disappear over warmer months and reappear over the winter months. There is nothing wrong with a snow nose, and it is perfectly acceptable in the Siberians.

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This is called a "pinto eye", a "parti eye", or a "split eye." It is also fairly common in the Siberians. One or both eyes may be all blue with a brown pie shaped wedge, or all brown with a blue wedge. At first glance, it may appear that there is something wrong with the eye but there is not. It is simply a matter if pigmentation. This too is perfectly acceptable in the Siberians.

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Yes and no. This Breed is a very intelligent Breed. They will often do things that surprise their owners. They can get into things that one might think are impossible. When Siberians are bored, they can become quite mischievous, inventive, and destructive. This is typical of working dogs. This is why it is so important to include the Siberian in family activities and give him plenty of attention and exercise.
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As a working dog, they need something to do, some way of challenging their intelligence and an outlet for their energy. If they are not provided one, they will find one for themselves.

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This too is a simple problem to solve. This problem should be approached in a series of stages. Stage 1 is use simple negative rienforcement when the dog makes unacceptable noise. This must be done repeatedly, every time it happens, for several days. Stage 2 is to step it up by employing a willing, perhaps the annoyed, neighbor to help. Have him squirt the dog with water when the noise happens. Most Siberian hate water. You could also employ any number of devices on the market designed to apply a squirt of water when a noise happens. I have never used one, but it should work. Unfortunately, it will not be able to distinguish between your dog making noise and a loud car, so your dog may recieve negative rienenforcement when it is not warranted. All of these methods, if applied with paitience and vigillence, should work. I have not tried stage 2. I have had stage 1 work most of the time, but occasionally have had to jump to stage 3, the bark-activated shock collar. These deliver up to eight different levels of shock to the dog when barking occurs, at adjustable levels of sensitivity. The shocks are similar to the electric fence above. I have used such a collar on two of my dogs, and have never had to go above level 2 on the collar. The problem was solved with the first shock. This may sound harsh, but it can save your dogs from the legal system if you have a sensitive neighbor.
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Although the Soviets dispute the claim, there is evidence to show that the Siberian Husky descends from the Chokchi Sled Dog which had been breeding true in the Soviet Arctic for 3000 years prior to its introduction to this continent. These were the dogs of a nomadic Siberian tribe used to pull sleds and herd reindeer. Not highly regarded in their native country because of their small size, it was nevertheless conceded that the Chukchi was the breed that could travel the greatest distance. Like all sled dog breeds, they were able to work hard for long periods on little food.
In a primitive way the women of the tribe practiced a form of selective breeding-the "best bred to the best"-and being isolated from crossbreeding by nature of the environment, in time a strain of intelligent, fast, sled dogs evolved.
A fur trader and explorer, Olaf Swenson, is credited with bringing the breed to the continental United States. Over a twenty-five-year period, Swenson had dealt with the Chukchi buying or trading for good dogs when he could. His eye for quality was infallible, and several of the dogs he managed to obtain were subsequently sent to the eastern United States to become the foundation stock of some of the first Siberian Husky kennels.
While Swenson's prime interest in the sled dog was its value as a reliable means of transportation, there were others who valued the Chukchi for its speed. At the turn of the century sled dog racing was becoming a popular sport and in 1909 the first team of Siberian Huskies was entered in the All-Alaska Sweepstake by William Goosak, but it was a Norwegian, Leonhard Seppala, who has been called the "World's greatest dog driver," who brought the Chukchi into public prominence. Seppala and his team won the All-Alaska Sweeps three years running and he was the hero of the historic "serum drive" that averted a diphtheria epidemic in Nome in the winter of 1925. A statue in memory of one of Seppala's dogs now stands in Central Park, New York, commemorating this historic run.
Seppala's dogs came with him when he later moved to the United States where they contributed much to the breeding programmes of early Siberian Husky kennels, and also the foundation stock of the first breeding kennel in Canada, which was located at St. Jovite, Quebec.
Since becoming an officially recognized breed in 1939, the Siberian Husky's popularity has grown enormously. As well as being the favourite of sled dog racing enthusiasts, the breed accounts for large entries at most championship dog shows.

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Each gender has its positives and negatives. Males are larger than females, and if left intact tend to mark their territory. Females, on the other hand, are smaller and if left unspayed will come into season twice a year. Both can make wonderful pets. The relative size may help you make your decision. If you already have a dog, its gender might help you make a decision about your Siberian.


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