Click here to read the beginners guide.
Author: SHCofGB

The SHCGB organises Teach-ins for people thinking about working their dogs or just starting their first season. These are usually held at the start of each season
(October/November) and in 2005 were held at Sherwood Forest and Fort William. Details are sent to all members and can also be found on the club calendar on the
website.
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Sled dogs run because they love to run, they are born and raised to it. How they run is a product of how they are trained. If they are well trained they will run in perfect harmony. If they don’t it is the failure of the musher, not the dogs. One of the great mushers of all time summed it all up when he said "the dogs never make a mistake".
Sled dogs, like all athletes, spend more time training than competing. By the time you see a dog running a race, the dog will have logged hundreds or more miles of training.

Author: http://www.isdra.org/Default.asp?bhcp=1%20-

I would try and keep the dog moving on a lead to help airflow over the mouth, it's main source of cooling. From what I have seen, recognising a dog is in heat
distress is the key. They tend to throw their heads way back as if gulping air down them. This is most noticeable while they are still running, but can also happen as a
dog has just finished a run. They stand there with their mouths super wide open, head back, foaming excessively, so you can see right down their gullet. This is still
an early stage of over heating and quite common. Getting the dog cooled down quickly is so important. If this does not happen the dog usually becomes unstable on
its feet and will usually collapse. If still untreated the dog can them have fits, before its body and brain shut down. Cool a dog off as Helen suggested. Do not cover a
dog in water. All this does is stick the dog’s hair together, which in turn acts as an insulating jacket and keeps the heat in. We all know dogs don't sweat through their
skin, but heat is radiated out through the body of a dog. Airflow through the fur helps the cooling process. If the air can't get to the skin, a large surface area is lost
to radiate this heat out.

We don't like to feed a snack shortly after a run because it raises the temperature of a dog even further just by digesting it, especially lean protein based ones like
some meats. For any food digested, heat is a by product. Pure protein is the hardest for a dog to metabolise. If any snack is to be given shortly after exercise I would
suggest a fat based one for two reasons. Firstly, fat based snacks are the coolest for a dog to absorb in that they produce the least amount of heat to extract the
energy from and secondly, fat also produces the highest amount of water as a by product of it's digestion (107g of water for every 100g fat digested) compared to
Protien (40g for every 100g) and carbohydrates (55g for every 100g).

I hope some of this helps you. Remember, this is only my opinion. There are many more out there that know far more on this subject than me.
Author: Al Spowart

To check your dogs hydration level is to check their gums. press your thumb on their gums, they should be pink and moist, if they are dry and sticky the dog is dehydrated. me being new to racing sibes and a tad on the paranoid side, give the dogs rehydration solutions after they have been working.
kelly

Author: kelly donaldson

Click here to read the working rally rules.
Author: SHCofGB

5-4-3-2-1…For the dog lover, visiting a sled dog rally can be a day of husky-heaven but to ensure you and the competitors get the most out of the racing, please
bear in mind the following points:

If you have to bring a pet dog to the rally, make sure he is secure on the lead AT ALL TIMES and keep him well clear of the trail when the teams are running. Our
huskies are well trained but are not robots! Another dog at the side of the trail can be extremely distracting for the teams which may be racing past you at speeds in
excess of 25 mph. Also bear in mind that your pet may not really enjoy the company of 200+ extremely noisy sled dogs!

The event organisers know the trail well and they’ll be able to advise you of the best spots to stand and watch the action. If you don’t want to venture that far, the
Start Chute is noisy and hectic but seeing the excitement of teams of dogs raring to go is not to be missed. The Finish line is noisy too but this time it won’t be the
huskies making the racket but enthusiastic family and friends calling in their favourite teams.

If you do venture out onto the trail, please stand well back and try not to startle passing teams with sudden movement. Huskies can be extremely sociable and you
wouldn’t want a large team to suddenly race up to you to say hello! There will be race officials (marshals) out on the trail so please take notice of any instructions they
may give you.

Part of the fun is to walk around the rally site, watching the mushers prepare their teams to run. Most people are only too happy to chat about their dogs but bear in
mind that teams have to be at the Start Chute at strict set times so if someone seems too busy to talk, pop back later when they’ve finished their run.

Never offer treats and please ask the handler before petting any dog. Huskies are strong and can be boisterous so please keep any small children in hand.

The club does not charge for spectating, however the venue may charge for entry or parking.

But beyond that wrap up warm, bring your camera and have fun.

Author: Mel Hannam

You should be training your puppy all along. Training starts from the moment the puppy comes out of Mom. Get him used to people and new things. Encourage him to explore. At two months to four months, get an adjustable puppy harness and get him used to putting harnesses on and taking it off. Pull on the loop and let him feel the tug of your finger. Get him used to you touching his paws and his mouth. Put him on a leash and praise him when he leads out (no real corrections here!) Get him used to car or dog box rides. At four months hook up a rope tied to a light drag. (Light as in a small tree branch or a log. Just something to provide a little drag -- if he is pulling, its too heavy!) Bring him to races and training runs. Praise him for leading out.

At eight months, put him in a slow team for less than 1/2 mile. This is just a part of his training, he'll be silly and goof up, but that short time in harness will make a (hopefully) positive impression. Let me re-emphasize: this should be a small and SLOW team and you should give almost no corrections, (except maybe line biting). Do not make the mistake of running him in a big or fast team where he might get dragged. Dragging a pup is the worst thing you can possibly do. Do a lot of stopping a praising here. Make this a positive experience and then don't run him again until he is over a year. His real team training will begin at a year (or so), but do not expect full performance until 2 years old.


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There are 3 wheeled rigs available from various outfitters. These rigs are not like children's wagons or ox carts (where you sit down), but more like chariots where you stand up. A good rig has a steering mechanism, a brake, and hopefully a place to put an injured dog (in front of you or beside you). People also have used 4 wheeler ATVs with success, but they are more expensive.
Training with bicycles, roller blades and roller skates have all been used by people, but they can be dangerous and not for the faint at heart. One or two dogs is about all one can handle on a bike and one dog is about all someone can handle with roller skates/blades.

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Tarmack/concrete is hard on the dog's legs and feet, making him more likely to have injures. Sometimes people don't have a choice, so if you must mush on concrete or asphalt, use polar fleece booties (for cushioning as well as protecting pads) and don't overwork your dogs. Try to get them to run on the grass or dirt, rather than the concrete.
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Hike! -- to go forward

Gee -- to go right

Haw -- to go left

Whoa! -- to stop

Straight ahead or On by! -- go straight and ignore turns

You may use your own commands for these more traditional commands. Some mushers have a tighten up or line-out command to get their leaders to keep the line tight while hooking up dogs.


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Harnesses can be hand-washed or machine washed with a mild detergent in warm water. Hang them to dry (collar up in humid climates) away from a heat source to prevent shrinkage. (Machine drying will cause your harnesses to turn into puppy harnesses if you aren't careful). Hose off your ganglines -- being especially careful to wash the dirt from the snaps. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations for washing winter clothes. If you have questions, consult the manufacturer of your equipment for proper care.

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