Common Husky Questions
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SHCGB Common Husky Questions/FAQ - Showing
Please click on a question to read the answers or return to the list of sections
- So you want to show?
- Glossary of frequently used terms
- How are the championship show results calculated.
- Can anyone tell me how the club open show points competition works.
- What age for ringcraft training?
Question: So you want to show?
So you want to show?
You may have been interested in Dog Shows for some time and wondered what's involved. You may have been persuaded to show your puppy by its breeder. Whatever the reason I hope that the following notes will help you.
Before you start you will have to make sure that your dog is Kennel Club registered. The breeder of your dog should have given you the registration document.
The best person to approach about showing your dog is the breeder. Usually, but not always, the breeder is already involved in the Dog Show scene. When the dog is about 5 or 6 months ask for the breeder's opinion on your puppy. If the puppy is of general show quality then by all means take up this wonderful hobby. But be prepared, you will need help and assistance from lots of people and you will have to be prepared to take advice and learn. Many breeders are happy to help and pass on their knowledge.
Nowadays there is a lot of information on the www.
Author:
You may have been interested in Dog Shows for some time and wondered what's involved. You may have been persuaded to show your puppy by its breeder. Whatever the reason I hope that the following notes will help you.
Before you start you will have to make sure that your dog is Kennel Club registered. The breeder of your dog should have given you the registration document.
The best person to approach about showing your dog is the breeder. Usually, but not always, the breeder is already involved in the Dog Show scene. When the dog is about 5 or 6 months ask for the breeder's opinion on your puppy. If the puppy is of general show quality then by all means take up this wonderful hobby. But be prepared, you will need help and assistance from lots of people and you will have to be prepared to take advice and learn. Many breeders are happy to help and pass on their knowledge.
Nowadays there is a lot of information on the www.
Author:
Question: Glossary of frequently used terms
Show Schedule – a printed booklet which includes a classification for each breed and also shows details of venue etc. The schedule will also contain an entry form. It is published approximately 3 months in advance of the show date. These are automatically sent to potential exhibitors by post or if you exhibited your dogs the previous year; or, they can be picked up at other shows; or, by contacting the appropriate Show Secretary.
Making an entry – filling in an entry form with details of the dog to be entered, date of birth, owners/breeders, and classes entered. The fee must accompany the entry form and it is sent to the Secretary. Dogs have to be a minimum of 6 months of age on the first day of the show; there are certain classes which depend upon the age of the dog (e.g. Minor Puppy – 6 to 9 months, Puppy – 6 to 12 months & Junior 6 to 18 months of age) Dogs normally compete within their own age group but once they are older than 18 months then the class they are entered in depends upon their previous wins.
Entries are normally made by post and the closing date has to be adhered to and is normally referred to by the date of postmark, not the date the entry reaches the Secretary. Entries can also be made for some shows on line. Please note than only dogs entered for competition can be admitted within the precincts of the show and this includes the car park. Dogs should not, in any circumstances, be left in cars. If they are it can have fatal results for the dog and may result in some form of disciplinary action. Dogs can, however, be entered “Not For Competition” or “NFC”. This means that you include them on the entry form, paying a reduced fee but they are not eligible for competition at the show. You can then take the dog into the show.
Exhibitors Pass – This is sent to your home address usually 2 weeks prior to the show. Printed upon it are all the details relating to you; your dogs; and relevant show documentation. You must show the Exhibitors Pass to gain entry into the Showground. If it is mislaid you need to contact the Secretary at the Showground. The exhibitors pass will also show your………
Bench number – at Championship shows all dogs are benched. This means that a steel/wooden type structure is provided by the show. Your dog should be put in this (apart from when he/she is being exercised). Most small breeds will be put in a cage or travelling box before being placed in the bench. All dogs of the same breed are normally benched in the same area. Large dogs do not have boxes or cages; they are secured in the bench by means of a benching chain.
Show Catalogue – this is available only on the day of the show and provides a complete listing of Exhibitors, dogs and classes. A map of the showground; start times etc. and all relevant information for the show is included in the catalogue. It is quite normal for catalogues to be ordered (and paid for) in advance at the time the entry is made. Your exhibitor’s pass will include a slip which enables you to collect your catalogue on arrival at the show. You should always check that your details are shown correctly in the catalogue and if they are not you should speak to someone in the Show Secretary’s office.
Day of the Show – you should always make sure you know which day of the show your breed is being judged. Different groups of dogs, e.g. Terriers or Hounds can be judged on different days. Take a water bowl and food (the latter for both dog and human!) Start time – you should always allow plenty of time for your journey, there are very often queues of traffic going into the show. You do not register when you get there but the first thing you should do is to find your bench and settle your dog.
Judging usually begins at 10 am but for larger breeds it can start at 9 am. See your schedule for more information.
Order of Judging – this is printed in the catalogue and sometimes enclosed on a leaflet with your ‘Exhibitors Pass’. This will show when and where your breed is to be judged.
Judging takes place in a... Ring – this is an area of ground cordoned off which contains a table on which the judge will examine each dog. At outdoor shows there will always be a separate ring under cover where judging can take place if the weather is unkind. You should make sure you know where to find this. This ring is often called the “wet weather accommodation”. Before you go to the ring you should make sure that you have your…….
Ring Number – you will find this at the top of your bench. It will be the same as your bench number. This is to be displayed on your person so that spectators can identify your dog and look it up in the catalogue. (The judge does not have access to the catalogue until after the show!!)
Judge – a person who is qualified to judge your breed and, for Championship Shows, is approved by the Kennel Club to judge at that level.
Ring Stewards – are present in every show ring and will instruct you where to stand. They will also make sure that you are displaying the correct ring number. Showing your dog – the normal procedure is for all dogs to enter the ring, not in any particular order, but they all stand in a line. Dogs are normally shown on a slip lead, this is a nylon lead used specifically for showing and can be bought at the shows.
The judge will sometimes ask the first exhibitor to lead all the exhibitors around the ring, once or sometimes twice. By doing this, the judge makes his or her first assessment of the dogs in the class. Always make sure that you walk with the dog nearest the judge, i.e. do not position yourself between the dog and the judge (or the judge will not be able to see your dog properly). The judge will then examine each dog on the table. You will hold the dog in position to make it easier for the judge. The judge will then ask you to move your dog, usually by walking it in a triangle shape so that he/she can get a view of the dog’s back, front and side movement (gait). You will then return to the line of exhibitors. When the last dog has been walked you should have your dog ready to look its best before the final decision is made. Sometimes a tit bit will help your dog look more alert. Some breeds are shown on a loose lead, some are “stacked” (held by the exhibitor with the dogs head and tail placed to show off the dog’s outline). In classes where there are a lot of entries the judge may select several dogs from the class for a closer look. This is known as “being pulled out” or “making the cut”. The judge will then place normally 5 dogs, 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc. When the judge is satisfied with the placings, he or she will tell the steward who will hand out the prize cards. If you are not placed you may leave the ring, but you should wait until you are satisfied that the judging is finished. If you win 1st, 2nd (sometimes 3rd) place the judge will ask you to stand and continue to show your dog for a little while whilst the critique is done. He or she will make brief notes and will enlarge upon this after the show.
These critiques are sent to Dog World and Our Dogs for publication. When all the classes of one sex have been judged the unbeaten winning dogs will be called back into the ring to challenge for the……….
Challenge Certificate (C.C. or sometimes known as the ‘ticket’). This is a certificate which the judge signs stating that in his or her opinion the dog is worthy of becoming a Show Champion. These certificates are awarded by The Kennel Club (the dog world’s governing body who licence all shows) and a special certificate is posted to the exhibitor by The Kennel Club at a later date. Your dog will need three of these awards, given by different judges before he/she becomes a Champion. This status is also awarded by The Kennel Club. The judge has the right to withhold the CC (and RCC) if he does not think any dog entered in any class is worthy of being a Champion. The Reserve Challenge Certificate -
All unbeaten winning dogs then challenge for this award. This certificate states that the dog given this award is worthy of being awarded the CC should the certificate winner be disqualified. This doesn’t happen very often! It is at the judge’s discretion to call into the ring the dog place second to the CC winner.
Best of Breed – the Dog CC winner and the bitch CC winner then compete for Best of Breed. This exhibit then enters the group for his breed. This is judged towards the end of the show and is very often judged by a different judge to the breed classes. Normally it is an experienced judge who judges more than one breed at Championship show level. The winner of the group then challenges the other winners of the other groups and eventually the Best in Show award is made. Secretary (office) – the Show Secretary has an office on the showground to deal with any queries.
Show Manager – deals with the organisation of the showground. Veterinary Surgeon – is present on every showground.
Results – see your results displayed on the showground and on-line. Crufts Qualifications – you have to qualify your dog at General Championship shows before you can show at Crufts Dog Show.
Not for competition (NFC) – dogs may be entered ‘not for competition’. This means a bench will be provided for your dog but it cannot compete in the show. Other Awards – There are two other significant awards that can be added as a suffix after the dog name……..
JW – for Junior Warrant
Sh.CM – Show Certificate of Merit is gained at Open Shows only.
Different types of Dog Shows Championship Shows - Challenge Certificates are on offer for most breeds. They are normally large shows, lasting a few days. Your dog does not, however, have to have done any previous winning to attend these shows.
Open Shows – a smaller type of show, open to all. Champions can be entered but not many are. Quite often dogs and bitches of one breed are judged together.
Limited Shows – these are limited to 75 classes and any dog that has won either a CC or any win that counts towards the status of Champion is ineligible for entry.
Match meetings – locally run training classes for the show ring. CC winners cannot enter.
Author: http://www.dog.biz/show_terminology.htm
Making an entry – filling in an entry form with details of the dog to be entered, date of birth, owners/breeders, and classes entered. The fee must accompany the entry form and it is sent to the Secretary. Dogs have to be a minimum of 6 months of age on the first day of the show; there are certain classes which depend upon the age of the dog (e.g. Minor Puppy – 6 to 9 months, Puppy – 6 to 12 months & Junior 6 to 18 months of age) Dogs normally compete within their own age group but once they are older than 18 months then the class they are entered in depends upon their previous wins.
Entries are normally made by post and the closing date has to be adhered to and is normally referred to by the date of postmark, not the date the entry reaches the Secretary. Entries can also be made for some shows on line. Please note than only dogs entered for competition can be admitted within the precincts of the show and this includes the car park. Dogs should not, in any circumstances, be left in cars. If they are it can have fatal results for the dog and may result in some form of disciplinary action. Dogs can, however, be entered “Not For Competition” or “NFC”. This means that you include them on the entry form, paying a reduced fee but they are not eligible for competition at the show. You can then take the dog into the show.
Exhibitors Pass – This is sent to your home address usually 2 weeks prior to the show. Printed upon it are all the details relating to you; your dogs; and relevant show documentation. You must show the Exhibitors Pass to gain entry into the Showground. If it is mislaid you need to contact the Secretary at the Showground. The exhibitors pass will also show your………
Bench number – at Championship shows all dogs are benched. This means that a steel/wooden type structure is provided by the show. Your dog should be put in this (apart from when he/she is being exercised). Most small breeds will be put in a cage or travelling box before being placed in the bench. All dogs of the same breed are normally benched in the same area. Large dogs do not have boxes or cages; they are secured in the bench by means of a benching chain.
Show Catalogue – this is available only on the day of the show and provides a complete listing of Exhibitors, dogs and classes. A map of the showground; start times etc. and all relevant information for the show is included in the catalogue. It is quite normal for catalogues to be ordered (and paid for) in advance at the time the entry is made. Your exhibitor’s pass will include a slip which enables you to collect your catalogue on arrival at the show. You should always check that your details are shown correctly in the catalogue and if they are not you should speak to someone in the Show Secretary’s office.
Day of the Show – you should always make sure you know which day of the show your breed is being judged. Different groups of dogs, e.g. Terriers or Hounds can be judged on different days. Take a water bowl and food (the latter for both dog and human!) Start time – you should always allow plenty of time for your journey, there are very often queues of traffic going into the show. You do not register when you get there but the first thing you should do is to find your bench and settle your dog.
Judging usually begins at 10 am but for larger breeds it can start at 9 am. See your schedule for more information.
Order of Judging – this is printed in the catalogue and sometimes enclosed on a leaflet with your ‘Exhibitors Pass’. This will show when and where your breed is to be judged.
Judging takes place in a... Ring – this is an area of ground cordoned off which contains a table on which the judge will examine each dog. At outdoor shows there will always be a separate ring under cover where judging can take place if the weather is unkind. You should make sure you know where to find this. This ring is often called the “wet weather accommodation”. Before you go to the ring you should make sure that you have your…….
Ring Number – you will find this at the top of your bench. It will be the same as your bench number. This is to be displayed on your person so that spectators can identify your dog and look it up in the catalogue. (The judge does not have access to the catalogue until after the show!!)
Judge – a person who is qualified to judge your breed and, for Championship Shows, is approved by the Kennel Club to judge at that level.
Ring Stewards – are present in every show ring and will instruct you where to stand. They will also make sure that you are displaying the correct ring number. Showing your dog – the normal procedure is for all dogs to enter the ring, not in any particular order, but they all stand in a line. Dogs are normally shown on a slip lead, this is a nylon lead used specifically for showing and can be bought at the shows.
The judge will sometimes ask the first exhibitor to lead all the exhibitors around the ring, once or sometimes twice. By doing this, the judge makes his or her first assessment of the dogs in the class. Always make sure that you walk with the dog nearest the judge, i.e. do not position yourself between the dog and the judge (or the judge will not be able to see your dog properly). The judge will then examine each dog on the table. You will hold the dog in position to make it easier for the judge. The judge will then ask you to move your dog, usually by walking it in a triangle shape so that he/she can get a view of the dog’s back, front and side movement (gait). You will then return to the line of exhibitors. When the last dog has been walked you should have your dog ready to look its best before the final decision is made. Sometimes a tit bit will help your dog look more alert. Some breeds are shown on a loose lead, some are “stacked” (held by the exhibitor with the dogs head and tail placed to show off the dog’s outline). In classes where there are a lot of entries the judge may select several dogs from the class for a closer look. This is known as “being pulled out” or “making the cut”. The judge will then place normally 5 dogs, 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc. When the judge is satisfied with the placings, he or she will tell the steward who will hand out the prize cards. If you are not placed you may leave the ring, but you should wait until you are satisfied that the judging is finished. If you win 1st, 2nd (sometimes 3rd) place the judge will ask you to stand and continue to show your dog for a little while whilst the critique is done. He or she will make brief notes and will enlarge upon this after the show.
These critiques are sent to Dog World and Our Dogs for publication. When all the classes of one sex have been judged the unbeaten winning dogs will be called back into the ring to challenge for the……….
Challenge Certificate (C.C. or sometimes known as the ‘ticket’). This is a certificate which the judge signs stating that in his or her opinion the dog is worthy of becoming a Show Champion. These certificates are awarded by The Kennel Club (the dog world’s governing body who licence all shows) and a special certificate is posted to the exhibitor by The Kennel Club at a later date. Your dog will need three of these awards, given by different judges before he/she becomes a Champion. This status is also awarded by The Kennel Club. The judge has the right to withhold the CC (and RCC) if he does not think any dog entered in any class is worthy of being a Champion. The Reserve Challenge Certificate -
All unbeaten winning dogs then challenge for this award. This certificate states that the dog given this award is worthy of being awarded the CC should the certificate winner be disqualified. This doesn’t happen very often! It is at the judge’s discretion to call into the ring the dog place second to the CC winner.
Best of Breed – the Dog CC winner and the bitch CC winner then compete for Best of Breed. This exhibit then enters the group for his breed. This is judged towards the end of the show and is very often judged by a different judge to the breed classes. Normally it is an experienced judge who judges more than one breed at Championship show level. The winner of the group then challenges the other winners of the other groups and eventually the Best in Show award is made. Secretary (office) – the Show Secretary has an office on the showground to deal with any queries.
Show Manager – deals with the organisation of the showground. Veterinary Surgeon – is present on every showground.
Results – see your results displayed on the showground and on-line. Crufts Qualifications – you have to qualify your dog at General Championship shows before you can show at Crufts Dog Show.
Not for competition (NFC) – dogs may be entered ‘not for competition’. This means a bench will be provided for your dog but it cannot compete in the show. Other Awards – There are two other significant awards that can be added as a suffix after the dog name……..
JW – for Junior Warrant
Sh.CM – Show Certificate of Merit is gained at Open Shows only.
Different types of Dog Shows Championship Shows - Challenge Certificates are on offer for most breeds. They are normally large shows, lasting a few days. Your dog does not, however, have to have done any previous winning to attend these shows.
Open Shows – a smaller type of show, open to all. Champions can be entered but not many are. Quite often dogs and bitches of one breed are judged together.
Limited Shows – these are limited to 75 classes and any dog that has won either a CC or any win that counts towards the status of Champion is ineligible for entry.
Match meetings – locally run training classes for the show ring. CC winners cannot enter.
Author: http://www.dog.biz/show_terminology.htm
Question: How are the championship show results calculated.
Points are awarded as follows:
Top Dog & Bitch Awards
1st = 5 points
2nd = 4 points
3rd = 3 points
res = 2 points
vhc = 1 point
Only the highest award won will be counted, so if you entered 2 classes and won 1st in one and 2nd in the other, you would be awarded 5 points for the 1st prize.
The following additional points are awarded:
CC + BOB = 8 points
CC + BOS = 7 points
RCC = 5 points
Top Puppy Award
Same as above, except an additional 5 points are awarded for Best Puppy.
Author: Krys Greenland
Top Dog & Bitch Awards
1st = 5 points
2nd = 4 points
3rd = 3 points
res = 2 points
vhc = 1 point
Only the highest award won will be counted, so if you entered 2 classes and won 1st in one and 2nd in the other, you would be awarded 5 points for the 1st prize.
The following additional points are awarded:
CC + BOB = 8 points
CC + BOS = 7 points
RCC = 5 points
Top Puppy Award
Same as above, except an additional 5 points are awarded for Best Puppy.
Author: Krys Greenland
Question: Can anyone tell me how the club open show points competition works.
Points are as follows:
The classes must be for Siberian Huskies (not varieties) and must have a judge from the current SHCGB judges list. There doesn't have to be a minimum number of
dogs in the class.
5 points for a first, 4 for second, 3 for third, 2 for fourth and 1 for fifth. BOB gets an extra 2 points and BP gets an extra 1 point. The points are awarded on your best
placing in one class, so if you were 2nd in graduate and 3rd in open, with the same dog, you would only get 4 points (being your best placing out of the two classes).
If a puppy was to win a class and get BOB (also auto get BP) points would be 5 for the win, 2 for BOB and 1 for BP - 8 points in total.
No extra points are awarded for group placings or best in show etc.
It is your responsibility to inform the points collator of your wins - show name, date, judges name, place awarded and class awarded in and of course dogs registered
name are needed. Points total runs from 1st Jan to 31st Dec each year and should be sent in as soon as possible as it's an administrative headache if everyones full
years details are received at the end of the year!!
Author: Sherrie Unwin
The classes must be for Siberian Huskies (not varieties) and must have a judge from the current SHCGB judges list. There doesn't have to be a minimum number of
dogs in the class.
5 points for a first, 4 for second, 3 for third, 2 for fourth and 1 for fifth. BOB gets an extra 2 points and BP gets an extra 1 point. The points are awarded on your best
placing in one class, so if you were 2nd in graduate and 3rd in open, with the same dog, you would only get 4 points (being your best placing out of the two classes).
If a puppy was to win a class and get BOB (also auto get BP) points would be 5 for the win, 2 for BOB and 1 for BP - 8 points in total.
No extra points are awarded for group placings or best in show etc.
It is your responsibility to inform the points collator of your wins - show name, date, judges name, place awarded and class awarded in and of course dogs registered
name are needed. Points total runs from 1st Jan to 31st Dec each year and should be sent in as soon as possible as it's an administrative headache if everyones full
years details are received at the end of the year!!
Author: Sherrie Unwin
Question: What age for ringcraft training?
We started taking our pups to Ringcraft as soon as they were old enough to go out for walks etc. Its great for socialising your pup with other dogs and other people
However even before you go to Ringcraft you can practice 'standing' your pup for just a few seconds at a time and rewarding with a piece of biscuit or cheese - make it fun for your pup and praise lots for them standing still even if its just for a split second! Also practice getting pup to follow you perhaps up and down the hallway and encourage them to trot at your side for a biscuit - it will be so much easier when you get to Ringcraft classes if you've done a little bit a training first to get the pups attention.
Author: Erika Smales
However even before you go to Ringcraft you can practice 'standing' your pup for just a few seconds at a time and rewarding with a piece of biscuit or cheese - make it fun for your pup and praise lots for them standing still even if its just for a split second! Also practice getting pup to follow you perhaps up and down the hallway and encourage them to trot at your side for a biscuit - it will be so much easier when you get to Ringcraft classes if you've done a little bit a training first to get the pups attention.
Author: Erika Smales
As long as you know the basic procedures of exhibition in the showring, in my opinion you should start training your pup at home, now. This way you can do lots of very short bursts of training, and they are fun for the pup. I always start training pups to stand from a young age, making it into a game with lots of treats involved. The key is to do it little and often, as a pups concentration span is not very much. As the pup gets older, you make it into less of a game, and get them to stand for longer with less treats. Always reward at the end. When you start going to ringcraft your pup will be well ahead, and can spend more time on the socialising side. Please becareful that when you do go to ringcraft that the trainer doesn't teach your Siberian to stand like a rigid statue, with no personality. Standing still is one thing, but looking like a lifeless shell is another
I also train puppies to walk on the lead at an early age. I start with just an ordinary collar and lead, and start by walking them around with their favourite toy or treat allowing them to go in whatever direction they like to -again like a game. Always stick to a slow walking pace. As the pup becomes more confident and older, I start using a very basic 'show lead', then start teaching the pup to walk around in a big circle, in a triangle and straight up and down. The key to this again is to do it in short bursts, and very often, to reward with something they really like, and to encourage them on all the time. When they are very confident with this, I introduce the most common kind of show lead which is the check chain.
I have often found that the dogs I have had more of a problem with in the showring are ones that have not started their training at an early age. Training at a younger age shouldn't and needn't be intense, but should be done in short bursts. The pups we have at home at the mo are 7 weeks, and, when they come running over, I pick them up one by one, give them lots of fuss and attention, and then, at the end, set them back on the ground holding them and just say stand. They stand there wagging their tails, happy as larry and then go running off to play. It will stand you in great stead for when you start ringcraft, where you and pup will perfect the art.
Author: Krystyan Greenland
I also train puppies to walk on the lead at an early age. I start with just an ordinary collar and lead, and start by walking them around with their favourite toy or treat allowing them to go in whatever direction they like to -again like a game. Always stick to a slow walking pace. As the pup becomes more confident and older, I start using a very basic 'show lead', then start teaching the pup to walk around in a big circle, in a triangle and straight up and down. The key to this again is to do it in short bursts, and very often, to reward with something they really like, and to encourage them on all the time. When they are very confident with this, I introduce the most common kind of show lead which is the check chain.
I have often found that the dogs I have had more of a problem with in the showring are ones that have not started their training at an early age. Training at a younger age shouldn't and needn't be intense, but should be done in short bursts. The pups we have at home at the mo are 7 weeks, and, when they come running over, I pick them up one by one, give them lots of fuss and attention, and then, at the end, set them back on the ground holding them and just say stand. They stand there wagging their tails, happy as larry and then go running off to play. It will stand you in great stead for when you start ringcraft, where you and pup will perfect the art.
Author: Krystyan Greenland
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